植物多酚对核桃青皮色素染发性能的影响

Effects of plant polyphenols on hair dyeing properties of walnut green husk pigment

核桃青皮色素作为一种天然植物染料,着色力差,应用受限。本文选用六种天然植物多酚(没食子酸、单宁酸、阿魏酸、绿原酸、鞣花酸和儿茶素),研究其对核桃青皮色素染发性能的影响。在此基础上,以核桃青皮色素主要呈色物质胡桃醌为研究对象,探究有助染性的多酚与胡桃醌协同染发时的动力学模型,并通过分子对接技术阐明胡桃醌、多酚和人发角蛋白三者间的相互作用。结果表明:没食子酸、单宁酸、阿魏酸和绿原酸对核桃青皮色素染发有助染性,并能提高染发色牢度,且不会对头发毛鳞片结构造成破坏;与核桃青皮色素单独染发相比,四种多酚协同核桃青皮色素染发后,头发的抗紫外线性能和断裂强度有所下降,但仍高于未染头发。胡桃醌在头发上的吸附过程不符合动力学模型,加入没食子酸、单宁酸和阿魏酸后符合准二级动力学模型。此外,绿原酸加入后使分子间结合能力增强,单宁酸加入后分子间结合能力变弱,没食子酸、阿魏酸和绿原酸的加入增加了分子间氢键总数。该研究可为天然核桃青皮染发剂的开发提供理论参考。

Walnut green husk pigment(WGHP),a natural plant dye,has poor coloring capacity,which limits its application.This study selected six natural plant polyphenols(gallic acid,tannic acid,ferulic acid,chlorogenic acid,ellagic acid and catechin)to study their effects on the dyeing properties of WGHP.Based on this,the kinetics model of synergistic dyeing of polyphenols and juglone(the main chromogenic substance of WGHP)were explored.Interaction among juglone,polyphenols and human hair keratin was clarified by molecular docking technology.The results showed that gallic acid,tannic acid,ferulic acid and chlorogenic acid contributed to the dyeing of WGHP,improved color fastness of hair,and did not damage the structure of hair scales.Compared with hair dyed by WGHP,the UV resistance and breaking strength of hair dyed by WGHP with four polyphenols reduced,but they were still higher than those of uncolored hair.In addition,the adsorption process of juglone on hair did not conform kinetic model,while after adding gallic acid,tannic acid,and ferulic acid,respectively,the adsorption process of juglone on hair conformed to the pseudo-second-order kinetic model.Furthermore,chlorogenic acid enhanced the intermolecular binding ability among juglone,polyphenols and human hair keratin,while tannic acid weakened the intermolecular binding ability.Gallic acid,ferulic acid and chlorogenic acid increased the total number of intermolecular hydrogen bonds.This study can provide a theoretical reference for the development of natural walnut green husk hair dye.