戏曲水袖考

Water Sleeves in Xiqu

自汉代出现的水袖是众所周知的戏曲表演装扮载体,对其进行历史溯源与价值剖析具有以小见大的美学观照价值。目前学界对戏曲水袖的探讨多以表演程式研究为主,而对服饰史论考证不足。文章明确了袖褾是戏曲水袖的鼻祖之一,历史中的乐舞长袖和生活袖褾对于戏曲水袖的出现与发展具有推动作用,辨析了袖褾与现代水袖的结构形态,归纳了戏曲水袖出现后不同角色行当的演绎表达。水袖具有鲜明的东方表演美学特性,是中国戏曲表演艺术区别于其他表演门类的程式化装扮法则。水袖虽不见“水”,却具有“水”形态的波澜,能够展现角色的情绪,传达表演者的万般意蕴。

The water sleeves,which originated in the Han Dynasty,are renowned as the carrier symbols of Xiqu performance costumes.Tracing their origin and analyzing their unique functional value offer an aesthetic perspective of observing the macro from the micro.The research status in the academic field of Xiqu water sleeves mainly centers on the study of performance patterns.The research purpose is to clarify the origin and textual research of water sleeves in the costume history,distinguish and analyze the forms of sleeve cuffs in different eras and their development and evolution,and summarize the expression and interpretation of Xiqu water sleeves on the costumes of different roles.Water sleeves possess distinct aesthetic characteristics of oriental performance and are also the stylized costume rule of Chinese Xiqu performance art that distinguishes it from other performance genres.Although there is no actual “water” in water sleeves,they are more powerful than the waves in the form of “water”,metaphorically carrying various meanings in performance emotions.The value of long sleeves in music and dance and sleeve cuffs in daily life for the emergence of Xiqu water sleeves has been clarified,and the spiritual core conveyed by water sleeves in Xiqu costumes has been restated.