北朝风帽俑服饰特征的演变及其成因探析

Analysis of the evolution and causes of the clothing characteristics of theNorthern Dynasty’s wind hat figurines

北朝是风帽俑成型与发展的重要时期,风帽俑服饰具有鲜明的时代特征与民族特色。文章通过对相关实物及文献的搜集与梳理,对风帽俑服饰特征及演变展开分析,主要包括风帽样式及身衣样式两方面。并在此基础上,论证影响风帽俑服饰特征演变的社会原因。研究表明,北魏前期,风帽样式较为丰富;北魏后期,风帽样式减少;东魏北齐时期,风帽样式又再多元化,装饰趣味浓郁;西魏北周时期,风帽样式较为单一,风帽功能以保暖为主。身衣的样式在时间线上则呈现由鲜卑服饰元素鲜明至胡汉融合的特点。中原与西域文化的融合、佛教文化的渗透、服饰审美风尚的更迭,以及服饰制作材质的差异,是促使北朝风帽俑服饰特征形成及演变的重要因素。

The Northern Dynasties were an important period for the formation and development of wind hat figurines.The clothing of wind hat figurines not only had distinct characteristics of the times and ethnic features,but also reflected the materialization of textile technology,aesthetic trends,and ideological concepts at that time.This article systematically analyzes the characteristics and evolution process of the clothing of the Northern Dynasty’s wind hat figurines through the collection and organization of relevant physical objects,image materials,and literature.Based on this,it elaborates on the social reasons for the formation of the clothing characteristics of the wind hat figurines.The article divides the Northern Dynasties into four historical periods:the early Northern Wei,the late Northern Wei,the Eastern Wei and Northern Qi,and the Western Wei and Northern Zhou.The development and evolution of the clothing characteristics of the wind hat figurines can be traced along the timeline.The clothing composition of the wind hat figurines can be specifically divided into two parts:wind hats and clothes.The styles of these two parts have the following development trajectory:in the early Northern Wei Dynasty,the styles of wind hats were relatively rich,including cockscomb wind hats,cross wind hats,dome wind hats,etc.The clothing was mainly composed of Xianbei pants and pleated clothes,which were light and practical.In the late Northern Wei Dynasty,with Emperor Xiaowen’s promotion of sinicization reform,Xianbei clothing integrated the characteristics of Han clothing of broad robes with a wide waistband.The narrow sleeves and narrow legs were changed to wide sleeves and wide legs,and the styles of wind hats were reduced accordingly.During this period,wind hats mainly included dome shaped wind hats and pointed wind hats.During the Eastern Wei and Northern Qi periods,the traditional hat style of the Xianbei people became popular again,but with changes in the environment,it developed slightly and produced many new styles,such as triangular wind hats,folded edge wind hats,and rolled skirt wind hats.And during this period,shoulder baring clothing was the most unique.The styles of wind hats during the Western Wei and Northern Zhou Dynasties were relatively simple,mainly including thick wind hats,hooded wind hats,etc.The cold proof function of clothing was more prominent.During the Northern Wei Dynasty,the Xianbei ethnic group took control of the Central Plains,and the borrowing and integration of Central Plains and Western Regions cultures were important factors that led to the formation of the clothing characteristics of the wind hat figurines.In addition,the clothing of the wind hat figurines was also influenced by Buddhist culture,such as incorporating the style of mountain shaped flower vine crowns into the wind hat,while the body clothing borrowed from the unique right shoulder style attire of Buddhist monks.The clothing characteristics of the wind hat figurines during the Northern Dynasties period went through a transformation from pursing warmth and practicality,to being wide and broad,and then to being broad and rough,which was closely related to the aesthetic trend of clothing in society at that time.The materials used to make the costumes of the wind hat figurines in different periods were also different,including silk,cloth,fur,felt,etc.Regardless of the materials or production techniques used in these costumes,they were suitable for the practical functions and aesthetic decoration needs of the society at that time.By studying the evolution and causes of the clothing characteristics of wind hat figurines in the Northern Dynasties,we can not only glimpse into the social and political,ethnic integration,religious culture,and aesthetic trends of that time,but also provide reference and guidance for further research on ancient Chinese clothing culture.