β-烟酰胺单核苷酸在化妆品中应用的安全性和功效性评价

Safety and efficacy evaluation of β-nicotinamide mononucleotide in cosmetics

对β-烟酰胺单核苷酸(NMN)从安全和功效2个维度进行评价,为其在化妆品领域的应用提供依据。采用鸡胚绒毛尿囊膜(CAM)模型和皮肤斑贴实验评价NMN的安全性,结果显示其在1%浓度下无刺激性,表明NMN具有较高的安全性。通过LPS诱导RAW264.7细胞建立炎症模型,NMN在0.003%浓度下炎症介质NO抑制率为16.86%(p<0.0001);另外,通过UVB照射HFF-1细胞建立光损伤模型,在0.005%浓度下I型胶原蛋白的上调率为45.19%(p<0.05)。人体功效测试结果显示,34名志愿者连续使用含有1%NMN样品28天后,皮肤回弹时间下降了18.14%,与空白对照样品相比有显著性差异(p<0.05),说明该成分具有紧致功效,不过皱纹长度和皮肤水分的变化没有显著性差异。由此可知NMN具有较高的安全性,能够抑制炎症反应、促进细胞I型胶原蛋白的合成,具有皮肤紧致功效,作为化妆品的功能成分具有较好的应用价值和前景。

This article evaluatesβ-nicotinamide mononucleotide(NMN)from two dimensions of safety and efficacy,and provides a basis for its application in cosmetics.Safety was assessed by the chicken chorioallantoic membrane(CAM)model and human skin patch test,which showed that NMN had high safety at 1%concentration with no irritation.An inflammation model was established by LPS-induced RAW264.7 cells,and the inhibition rate of inflammatory mediator NO was 16.86%at 0.003%concentration of NMN(p<0.0001).In addition,the photo-damage model was also established by UVB irradiation of HFF-1 cells,and the up-regulation rate of type I collagen was 45.19%at 0.005%concentration(p<0.05).Clinical efficacy tests revealed that after 28 days of use containing 1%NMN,skin rebound time decreased significantly by 18.14%,which showed a significant difference compared with the control sample(p<0.05).It indicated that this component had a firming effect,but there were no significant differences in wrinkle length or skin moisture changes.In conclusion,NMN is a safe functional ingredient for cosmetics with anti-inflammatory properties and promoting type I collagen synthesis while providing a tightening effect on the skin.As a functional component of cosmetics,NMN has good application value and prospect.