截断与隐没——经纬变途中的文字锦

Cutting and Concealing:Brocade with texts in the development and transformation of weaving technology

首先对文字锦的织纹特征与使用情况进行梳理,从现象上指出汉晋时期文字锦多被截断使用的事实;接着通过对经显花工艺的技术探讨,分析文字锦的特征来源,并推论其易被截断与最终落幕的客观原因;最后引入对古代中国礼服“缛”化需求的观察,阐明魏晋以降纬显花工艺的必然“上位”与经显花工艺仍“隐形”存在的丝织进程。

At first,sorts out the weaving characteristics and usage of textual brocade,and proposes the fact that textual brocade was often cut off and used during the Han and Jin dynasties from a phenomenological perspective;Then,through the technical exploration of the Jing Xianhua craft,it analyzes the characteristics and sources of textual brocade,and infer the objective reasons for its easy truncation and final ending;Finally,with an observation of the demand for“Ru”in ancient Chinese formal attire is introduced,it elucidates the inevitable“superiority”of the weft embroidery techniques since the Wei and Jin dynasties and the“invisible”existence of the warp embroidery techniques in the silk weaving process.