自生与他借——近代江南地区刺绣发展中的图案传承与创新

Self-Evolution and External Borrowing:The Inheritance and Innovation of Embroidery Patterns Development in Modern Jiangnan Region

近代江南地区刺绣艺术的兴盛,以及西方文化在服饰审美、社会生活、艺术等方面的全面渗入,使得服务于大众生活的刺绣图案在题材、形式以及内涵等方面呈现出新的变化与发展,“纹以教化”的传统图案功用逐渐弱化,代之以“以人为本”的追求时尚化、风格化的特点。本文以江南地区主要博物馆馆藏近代刺绣品、近代刺绣图案出版物为主要研究实例,从刺绣图案的构图样式、题材、审美内涵及其在装饰中的作用等方面进行分析,总结近代江南地区刺绣图案在传承发展中的经验和价值。以期能对当今民族文化复兴语境下传统图案艺术的传承与发展,起到一定的参考作用。

The flourishing of embroidery art in the Jiangnan region during modern times,along with the comprehensive infiltration of Western culture on fashion aesthetics,social life,and art,has led to new changes and developments in the themes,forms,and connotations of embroidery patterns serving public life.The traditional function of“pattern as education”has gradually weakened,giving way to a human-centric pursuit of fashion and stylization.This paper uses modern embroidery artifacts from major museums and publications of modern embroidery patterns in the Jiangnan region as primary research instances.It analyzes the compositional styles,themes,aesthetic connotations,and decorative roles of embroidery patterns,summarizing the experiences and values of embroidery pattern inheritance and development in modern Jiangnan region.It is expected that this study will provide references for the inheritance and development of traditional pattern art in the context of the contemporary national cultural renaissance.