食用菌在化妆品中的应用及安全性评价

Application and Safety Evaluation of Edible Mushrooms in Cosmetics

食用菌是赋予化妆品养护皮肤功能的一类较为理想的原料。本文整理了灵芝、银耳等食用菌提取物及其化妆品在人体试用的结果,展示食用菌对皮肤保湿、美白、抗衰老等功效,其中效应物可来自食用菌的水提物或醇提物。动物实验和细胞实验也经常被应用到食用菌化妆品的研究开发中,本文在皮肤细胞水平上,较全面地列举并图示了食用菌化妆品抑制皮肤细胞黑色素生成、促进胶原蛋白合成、抑制细胞衰老和调亡,以及启动抗氧化和抑制炎症上游调控因子等功效作用的信号途径。最后根据我国化妆品管理的相关规定,整理了目前无需作新原料申报而用于化妆品的食用菌,以及通过现有的食用菌化妆品人体试用安全性测试结果,提示常见的食用菌是较为安全的化妆品原料。

Edible mushrooms are the ideal source of cosmetic ingredients for those with skin-nourishing properties.The results of human trials on edible mushroom such as Ganoderma lucidum and Tremella fuciformis extracts and their cosmetics were summarized,demonstrating their effectiveness in moisturizing,skin whitening,anti-aging and other benefits.These effects may originate from water extracts or alcohol extracts of edible mushrooms.Animal and cell experiments were also commonly used in researching and developing mushroom cosmetics.At the skin cell level,the effects of mushroom cosmetics was comprehensively listed and illustrated,including inhibiting melanin production,promoting collagen synthesis,suppressing cell aging and apoptosis,as well as initiating the upstream regulatory factors of signaling pathways for anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.In accordance with relevant regulations on the national cosmetic management,information was organized on edible mushrooms currently used in cosmetics without the material declarations.Safety testing results of edible mushrooms in human trials suggested that commonly used edible mushrooms were relatively safe cosmetic ingredients.