浅析舞蹈服饰中几种常见真丝绸面料的性能

Analyzing the Wearability of Several Common Silk Fabrics in Dance Costumes

以服饰为媒介,探讨不同产业领域、文化类型、表现形态的舞蹈和丝绸2个品类的主要特征、相互的作用意义和要求,分析舞蹈服饰中绡、纺、绉、缎等几种常见真丝绸面料的悬垂、透气、抗皱、抗纰裂等服用性能;比较得出加弹加捻类真丝绸是较佳的面料选择,素绉缎、双绉、电力纺和绡类真丝绸面料分别适合做旗袍、水袖、武术服、幕布、内衬里料、配饰面纱等;提出合理应用乔其纱等经纬线均加强捻真丝绸面料的注意事项,并根据舞蹈作品题材合理用好不同丝绸品种的挺括度、舒适性和耐用性等建议,达到促进舞蹈作品设计效果优化和提升的目的。

Using costumes as the medium,the main characteristics,mutual significance and requirements of dance and silk in dif-ferent industrial fields,cultural types and forms of expression were discussed.The draping,breathability,wrinkle resistance,anti-cracking and other wearability of several common silk fabrics such as georgette,habotai,crepe de chine and crepe satin plain in dance costumes were analyzed.The results show that the elastic and twisted silk is the best fabric choice for dance costumes,and the crepe satin plain,crepe de chine,habotai and georgette silk fabrics are suitable for Cheongsam,water sleeves,martial arts uniforms,cur-tains,lining materials,accessories and other applications in the dance field;Precautions on the rational use of the georgette and other warp and weft threads to strengthen twisted silk fabrics and suggestions and the rational use of the crispness,comfort and durability of different silk varieties according to the theme of dance works are put forward,so as to achieve the purpose of promoting the optimi-zation and improvement of the design effect of dance works.