基于中国古代纺织工具上的“八角星纹”研究

Research on the“octagonal star pattern”on ancient Chinese textile tools

“八角星纹”是新石器时代出土文物上刻画较为典型的一种符号。为了探索纺织服装领域里遗存的“八角星纹”流变轨迹与文化内涵,解开“八角星纹”的历史发展脉络,文章采用了广泛收集博物馆出土带有“八角星纹”的出土纺轮、纺织机械、刺绣纺织品等文物,结合比较了其他领域出土带有“八角星纹”文物,梳理并通过图像分析了“八角星纹”传导于纺织领域的本真内涵。研究发现,“八角星纹”在中国古代文化中有着悠久的历史。“八角星纹”是古人对自然的朴素认知,是对天地祭祀的符号,这种符号被传导到各种行业的器具中。古人将“八角星纹”装饰于纺机与服饰上同样是源于祭祀信仰的结果,研究认为“八角星纹”来自古人“燔柴”祭祀的物化符号;“八角星纹”流变后与中华传统文化里的河图洛书诞生有着莫大的关联,是阴阳八卦学说产生源头,是中华先民对阴阳数理的崇拜较早地渗透到纺织领域里的见证。

Octagonal star patterns were a relatively common motif in the Neolithic period.Despite having eight corners,they did not precisely point to the eight cardinal directions;instead,each pair of corners was parallel and pointed in one direction.They were concentrated in the eastern part of China,namely the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River and the lower reaches of the Yellow River.Among the discovered artifacts featuring the octagonal star pattern,many were textile tools.Thus,ancient textile tools are highly significant research subjects for interpreting the cultural connotations of the octagonal star pattern.This article extensively collected unearthed artifacts with the“octagonal star pattern”from museums,such as spindle whorls,textile machinery,and embroidered textiles.It also compared them with artifacts from other fields bearing the“octagonal star pattern”and analyzed the intrinsic meaning of the“octagonal star pattern”in the textile field through image analysis.Through thorough sorting and demonstration,at least three points can be clearly defined.Firstly,based on the current archaeological excavated relics,the earliest unearthed artifact depicting the“octagonal star pattern”was not a spindle whorl or a component of textile machinery in the textile field.Therefore,the claim in relevant literature that the“octagonal star pattern”represents the worship of the textile industry lacks essential evidence.Secondly,considering the three typical artifacts with the“octagonal star pattern”unearthed from Lingjiatan,namely the jade tablet,jade eagle,and spindle whorl,there is no doubt that the“octagonal star pattern”was a core symbol of great significance and reverence for the ancient people.It reflects the ancients’cognition,worship,and sacrifice to nature and the universe,with the aim of praying for blessings from the heavens.The spindle whorl with the“octagonal star pattern”unearthed from the site serves as the best supporting evidence.Thirdly,in the costumes of ethnic minorities in the southwest,the connotation of the“octagonal star pattern”has transformed into a symbol of the sun and its rays,representing people’s worship of the sun.In the textile and garment industry,over time,the“octagonal star pattern”has not only been applied in traditional brocade but has also expanded to other types of textiles and garments.It is regarded as a pattern with unique charm and cultural value and is widely utilized in various design works.With the continuous changes in fashion trends,the“octagonal star pattern”is constantly reinterpreted and innovated to adapt to the aesthetic needs and fashion trends of modern society.This article systematically and deeply collected,sorted out,and analyzed the historical context of the octagonal star pattern,analyzed the hierarchical laws of its transformation,and objectively evaluated the origin relationship between the octagonal star pattern and ancient textile tools.The“octagonal star pattern”was the ancients’simple perception of nature and a symbol of sacrifice to the universe.This symbol was passed on to implements in various industries.The ancients’decoration of the“octagonal star pattern”on textile tools and costumes was also a result of sacrificial beliefs and was a physical manifestation of the mutual confirmation between textile civilization and Chinese civilization.