海上丝绸之路视域下中外伊卡特染织艺术交流

The exchange of Ikat dyeing and weaving art between China and foreign countries from the perspective of the Maritime Silk Road

为探寻中外伊卡特染织艺术沿海上丝绸之路的传播与交流史迹,采用实物、图像与文献考证相结合的研究方法,考察区分界定中外伊卡特称谓及工艺类型概念,梳理亚欧大陆棉伊卡特艺术的起源、海路传播路径、传入地区、本土化发展特点。重点探讨伊卡特技艺传入中国的时间和表现,以及中国伊卡特纺织技艺对日本、欧洲伊卡特艺术发展产生的文化影响。认为中国扎经染色艺术的传入与丝路沿线地区宗教纺织服饰艺术传播相呼应;将棉伊卡特纺织技艺与中国丝织原材料及丝绸纺织技艺相结合生产出的丝绸经伊卡特纺织品是中国传习扎经染色技艺最重大的本土化创新。对伊卡特这一海上丝绸之路纺织服饰艺术交流鲜活例证的研究,以期为当下融汇中外纺织服饰艺术精粹,助力新时代美好生活时尚设计提供新的思路与启发。

To explore the historical spread and exchange of Chinese and foreign Ikat dyeing and weaving arts along the Maritime Silk Road,the research method of combining the physical evidence,documentary sources,and visual materials was adopted.The nomenclature of Ikat within Chinese and foreign cultures,as well as the fundamental concepts of Ikat craft types,were examined.The origins,dissemination routes,introduction areas,and local development characteristics of cotton textile Ikat in Eurasia were also traced.Particular emphasis was placed on the timing and methods of Ikat′s introduction into China.The cultural impact of Chinese Ikat techniques on the development of Ikat art in Japan and Europe was assessed.The results show that the introduction of Chinese warp-tying and dyeing art corresponded with the spread of religious textile arts along the Silk Road.A key local innovation in China involved combining cotton Ikat techniques with silk materials,resulting in the creation of silk warp Ikat textiles.This study highlights Ikat as a prime example of textile and clothing art exchange along the Maritime Silk Road,offering potential insights into the integration of the Chinese and foreign textile art traditions in contemporary fashion design.