化妆品用增稠剂

Thickener in cosmetics

综述了使用于化妆品的增稠剂:无机盐类、表面活性剂类、水溶性高分子类和脂肪醇脂肪酸类等共200多种。增稠剂通过与表面活性剂形成棒状胶束、与水作用形成三维水化网络结构、或利用自身的大分子长链结构等使体系达到增稠的目的。详细介绍了增稠剂的配伍性能、使用范围、影响因素和增稠机理分类。在产品配方开发过程中根据配方的pH值、稳定性、刺激性、泡沫、配方成本、是否透明、流变形态、外观颜色、电解质稳定性和法规等方面的要求综合进行考虑,才能有效地选用恰当的增稠剂。只有不断在实际中总结经验,才能真正懂得如何有效地选用增稠剂。

The rheology of cosmetic is the important factor of its appearance.Formulators change the rheological properties and viscosity of their product by use of thickening agents.The salts,surfactants,water-soluable polymers,fatty alcohol fatty acid and so on in thickener used in cosmetic are related.They are over 200 in all. The thickener reach the aim of thickening by forming club-shaped colloid interacting with surfactants,by forming three-dimensional hydrated reticular structure interacting with water or taking use of their own long chain structure.The mechanism of thickening is discussed and some special characters such as compatible performance,applied range,interfere factor are introduced in detail respectively.In the process developing product,the suitable thickener can be selected according to the need of product in pH value,stability,irritation,foam,cost,rheology,color,clarity,law and so on.One can understand how to thicken your formula indeed as long as you constantly accumulate experience in practice.