针织提花面料凹凸肌理效果设计与工艺

Design and manufacture of pique effect in flat-knit jacquard fabric

为提高毛衫设计师利用针织软件及针织技术开发具有丰富肌理效果提花面料的能力,拓宽设计思维,文章以STOLL电脑横机的M1-PLUS提花模块为基础,对提花类组织结构的成型原理进行分析,从组织结构、针织技术、纱线选择等方面探讨针织提花面料凹凸肌理的设计要点,在提花织物的基础模块上,采用多针距技术、局部编织、浮线与局部编织结合、空气层与芝麻点组合、毛圈与芝麻点组合、弹力纱线使用等方式设计出灵活多变、时尚丰富的凹凸提花肌理面料。

To further improve the designers’ ability and broad their mind in developing jacquard fabrics with rich texture patterns by using different kinds of technology and knitting software, the knitting principles of the jacquard structures was analyzed based on M1 Plus system from STOLL, the key points of the pique texture effect design of patterned fabrics were investigated from structures, knitting technology and yarn selection. The conclusion shows that fashionable knitting fabrics with pique texture effect can be realized by multiple stitch technique, local knitting of pattern, floating and local knitting, air layer and sesame point, pile loop and sesame point as well as application of elastic yarns and so on.