橡子色素对羊毛织物的染色工艺

Dyeing process of acorn pigment wool fabric by acorns

为挖掘羊毛织物传统染色工艺,拓宽现代植物染色的色彩内涵和色域范围,提高毛织物附加价值,使用皂矾为媒染剂,采用水煎法萃取橡子色素,对毛织物进行媒染,确定最佳染色工艺,不同染色工艺影响因素的显色规律,以及颜色特征值L~﹡、a~﹡、b~﹡、c~﹡值范围。实验结果表明:橡子色素羊毛织物后媒染可以染黑灰色调,染色效果为后媒染>前媒染>同媒染。最佳染液橡子色素质量分数为100%,最佳皂矾媒染剂质量浓度为5 g/L,最佳pH值6,最多染色次数为4次。复原了黑色和大黑色毡罽工艺,织物耐皂洗和耐摩擦色牢度均可达到3级以上,达到国家服用标准。证实了橡子色素可以染较深黑色,具有较大的开发价值。

In order to excavate the traditional dyeing process of wool fabrics, broaden the color connotation and gamut range of modern plant dyeing and improve the added value of wool fabrics by plant dyeing, saponin was used as mordant and acorn pigments were extracted using water decoction method, mordant dyeing process of wool fabric was carried out. The optimum dyeing process and the influencing factors of different dyeing processes, as well as the range of color L~*, a~*, b~*, c~* values were determined. The test results showed that the black and grey tone of wool fabric could be dyed by post mordant dyeing of acorn, and the dyeing effect is as follows: post mordant dyeing > pre mordant dyeing > co-mordant dyeing. The optimum concentration of acorn dye solution is 100 %, the optimum concentration of saponin mordant is 5 g/L, the optimum pH is 6, and the maximum number of dyeing times is 4. The black and large black felt are restored;the soaping and rubbing fastness are both above grade 3, which meets the national standard. It is proved that acorns can be used to dye darker black.