全成形毛衫袖窿成形工艺

Armhole forming process of full fashioned garment

选用岛精公司MACH2XS153(12G)全成形电脑横机的DS-ONE APPEX 3设计系统,研究全成形毛衫袖窿成形工艺。根据袖窿全成形编织特点,将全成形毛衫袖窿编织分为腋下、胸宽、肩宽3个部分。全成形毛衫在编织袖窿结构的同时,袖山部位也在不断地向袖窿部位移圈收针,收针痕迹影响袖窿外观造型。研究认为:毛衫前后袖窿存在袖窿宽度差和高度差,袖窿存在宽度差时,无袖毛衫对翻针造成影响,有袖毛衫先完成一片袖窿编织,再编织另一片,袖中线部位线圈会向针数较少的一侧扭转;袖窿高度存在差异时,可以通过局部增加或减少前后片的编织行数来实现,有袖毛衫需注意袖山与袖窿配伍。研究成果可为四针床全成形毛衫设计提供技术帮助。

In this paper,computerized flat knitting machine MACH2XS15312G and DS-ONE APPEX 3 design system were used to study the forming process of the full fashioned garment sleeves.According to the knitting characteristics of full fashioned armhole,the sleeve knitted fabric of full fashioned garment was divided into three parts:armpit,chest width and shoulder width.While the armhole structure of the full fashioned sweater was knitted,the sleeve part was constantly shifting to the armhole,and the appearance of the armhole was affected by the stitch marks.It was considered that the armhole width and the armhole height of the sleeves are different for front and back sweater.When the width of the armhole is different,the sleeveless sweater will affect the reverse stitch.An armhole will be finished first for the sweater with sleeves,and then another piece will be knitted,and the loops in the middle line of the sleeve will turn to the side with fewer needle;when the height of the armhole is different,it can be realized by increasing or reducing the knitting line number of the front and back pieces.A sweater with sleeves needs to pay attention to the compatibility of the sleeve mountain and the armhole.The research results provide technical assistance for the design of sweaters on four needle bed full fashioned garment machines.