摘要
基于岛精服装设计系统SDS-ONE APPEX3,介绍基本花样小图的结构及功能线描绘,并根据针织提花组织的编织原理,分别设计了单面均匀提花、背床1+1拉网提花、全出针提花、芝麻点提花、双面空气层提花、翻针提花的基本花样小图,阐述其在针织提花组织中的设计与应用;此外,采用SIR122 SV12电脑横机编织8种针织提花织物小样,对比分析不同针织提花组织的性能特点,为羊毛衫提花组织的工艺设计与应用提供了一定的理论与技术支持。
Knitted jacquard stitch is an essential aspect of sweater design.Base on SHIMA SEIKI apparel design system SDS-ONE APPEX3,the composition and function of option line bar for package base pattern were introduced.In addition,according to the knitting theory of jacquard stitch,the package base pattern for float jacquard,double jacquard with1+1 float stitch backing,horizontally striped backing,birds eye backing,tubular jacquard and transfer jacquard were designed respectively.Furthermore,eight panels of different jacquard were knitted by SHIMA SEIKI SIR122 SV12 computer flat knitting machine.The structural characteristics and performances for each jacquard were analyzed,which can provide theoretical and technical support for knitted jacquard design of sweater.
作者
范友红
李小辉
FAN Youhong;LI Xiaohui(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai200051,China;Key Laboratory ofClothing Design and Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai200051,China)
出处
《毛纺科技》
CAS
北大核心
2019年第6期12-17,共6页
Wool Textile Journal
基金
中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(2232019G-08)
东华大学2018年度高等教育规划专项课题项目(201825)
关键词
基本花样
压缩花样
展开花样
电脑横机
针织提花
base pattern
compressed pattern
developed pattern
computer flat knitting machine
knitted jacquard
