从匈奴铁马骑装至东洋雅乐舞服——古代服饰“吊敦”的传奇发展史

From a Horse Riding Clothing of Xiongnu to Dance Clothing of Fine Music in Japan— Legendary Development History of "Diaodun",a Kind of Ancient Clothing

吊敦,一种起源于匈奴的铁马骑装,在汉代时伴随骑兵以及其戎服一起传入的中原,魏晋南北朝时期得以广泛传播。唐代"吊敦"融入了当时戏剧服饰体系中,随着中日乐舞交流而跨海东渡至日本,而后与日本民族服饰糅合成雅乐服饰"裳"得以保存,而中原地区戏剧服饰之"吊敦"则逐渐变为宋金杂剧中"女扮男相"的"行头"。作为戏剧服饰的吊敦本身的演变过程亦充满了"戏剧性",文明的交相辉映使这一平凡的服饰具有重大的文化传承意义。

Diaodun,A kind of horse riding clothing originated from the Huns.It was introduced into the Central Plains With the cavalry In the Han Dynasty.It was widely spread In the period of the Wei Jin Southern and Northern Dynasties.It was integrated into the system of the theatrical costume In the Tang Dynasty.With the change between Chinese with Japanese music,It was introduced east to Japan and integrated with the Japanese national dress to Produce Keishou Shang,Diandun in In the Central Plains Gradually changed into drama Costume which was put on to pretend as a man In the song and Yuan Dynasties.The evolution process of the Diaodun was dramatic,It recorded different ethnic art and civilization,which made the ordinary clothing of great cultural significance.