大洋中涌浪对风浪能量的影响

The Influence of Swell on Wind Wave Energy in the Ocean

由于涌浪与风浪在特征物理参量及成长、衰亡上的显著不同,区分风涌浪以及研究涌浪对风浪的影响尤为重要。本文使用2013年及2015年大洋中的WaMoSⅡ测波雷达观测数据,研究了涌浪对风浪能量的影响。由于测波雷达仅使用了9s的有效周期作为谱分离判据,其所得风浪有效波高显著高于PM谱充分成长关系给出的波高。因此本文结合2D法与1D法,加入风速、风浪夹角、波龄等要素给出新的判据,重新对风、涌浪进行了分离。通过对比不同的波龄判据,发现当波龄取1.5时,所得结果与PM谱吻合良好。以Toba-3/2定律为基础,研究了不同类型涌浪对风浪能量的影响。发现三种类型涌浪存在时,风浪能量及有效波高整体上都有所增加,其中尤其以反向涌浪存在时增加最多。

There are significant differences in characteristic physical parameters,growth and decline between swell and wind waves.It is particularly important to identify wind-wave from swell and study the influence of swell on wind waves.This paper uses the WaMoSII wave radar data in the ocean of 2013 and 2015 to study the impact of swell on wind waves.The significant wave height of radar is markedly higher than the wave height given by the fully developed relationship of the PM spectrum due to using the single parameter of significant period of 9 sas spectrum partitioning criteria.Therefore,the criteria combining 2 Dwave spectrum partitioning technique with 1 D partitioning technique,adding new parameters such as wind speed,wind wave angle,wave age was used to separate wind-wavefrom swell.By comparing different wave age criteria,it was found that when the wave age is 1.5,the result agrees well with the PM spectrum.According to the Sugihara et al.(2007)classification method,the influence of swell on wind wave energy was studied based on Toba-3/2 law.The wave energy and significant wave height increased as a whole in three types of swell,with the most significant increase in the presence of countering swell.