规则波在浅水中运动及破碎的数值计算

Numerical calculation of regular waves moving and breaking in shallow water

利用一维Boussinesq方程描述了在浅水中的波浪运动以及破碎情况。在方程中引入了表面翻滚的概念,认为翻滚的水体是以波速运动的,翻滚的作用表现在水平速度的垂直分布上,产生了附加迁移动量项。通过对Airy波在浅水中运动以及破碎情况的研究,得出的一些结论与Sch ffer和合田的成果吻合良好。

A simple description of wave breaking in shallow water is incorporated in the Boussinesq equations by using the concept of surface rollers. The roller is considered as a volume of water being carried by the wave with the wave celerity. The effect of the roller is included in the vertical distribution of the horizontal velocity,which leads to an additional convective momentum term. The numerical simulation is applied to the Airy wave moving and breaking in shallow water. Some significant conclusions are obtained, and the numerical results are shown to be in good agreement with theffer and Goda.