摘要
As wave propagates into shallow water, the shoaling effect leads to increaseof wave height, and at a certain position, the wave will be breaking. The breaking wave is powerfulagents for generating turbulence, which plays an important role in most of the fluid dynamicalprocesses in the surf zone, so a proper numerical model for describing the turbulent effect isneeded urgently. A numerical model is set up to simulate the wave breaking process, which consistsof a free surface model using the surface marker method and the vertical two-dimensional model thatsolves the flow equations. The turbulence is described by Large Eddy Simulation (LES) method wherethe larger turbulent features are simulated by solving the flow equations, and the small-scaleturbulence that is represented by a sub-grid model. A dynamic eddy viscosity sub-grid scale stressmodel has been used for the present simulation. The large eddy simulation model, which we presentedin this paper, can be used to study the propagation of a solitary wave in constant water depth andthe shoaling of a non-breaking solitary wave on a beach. To track free-surface movements, The TUMMACmethod is employed. By applying the model to wave breaking problem in the surf zone, we found thatthese model results compared very well with experimental data. In addition, this model is able toreproduce the complicated flow phenomena, especially the plunging breaker.
As wave propagates into shallow water, the shoaling effect leads to increaseof wave height, and at a certain position, the wave will be breaking. The breaking wave is powerfulagents for generating turbulence, which plays an important role in most of the fluid dynamicalprocesses in the surf zone, so a proper numerical model for describing the turbulent effect isneeded urgently. A numerical model is set up to simulate the wave breaking process, which consistsof a free surface model using the surface marker method and the vertical two-dimensional model thatsolves the flow equations. The turbulence is described by Large Eddy Simulation (LES) method wherethe larger turbulent features are simulated by solving the flow equations, and the small-scaleturbulence that is represented by a sub-grid model. A dynamic eddy viscosity sub-grid scale stressmodel has been used for the present simulation. The large eddy simulation model, which we presentedin this paper, can be used to study the propagation of a solitary wave in constant water depth andthe shoaling of a non-breaking solitary wave on a beach. To track free-surface movements, The TUMMACmethod is employed. By applying the model to wave breaking problem in the surf zone, we found thatthese model results compared very well with experimental data. In addition, this model is able toreproduce the complicated flow phenomena, especially the plunging breaker.
基金
ThisworkwassupportedbytheNationalNaturalScienceFoundationofChina (GrantNo :5 0 2 790 30 )andTheHongKongResearchGrantsundercontracts.(GrantNo :5 9890 2 0 0 )
