面料不同纱向对服装围度规格的影响

Effect of yarn angle on specification of garment circumference

机织类服装材料不同纱向有着不同的性能,直接影响成衣穿着时的美观度和舒适度,也影响成衣生产中工业样板的准确度。选取了5种面料分别按0°、30°、45°纱向裁剪制作成衣,分析了在面料自身重力的作用下,服装围度方向的规格变化,并运用SPSS软件进行数据统计与分析,总结其变化规律。研究显示,面料纱向角度以及悬垂系数均对服装的围度规格有较大的影响。在制板过程中,合理调节成衣制板中的纱向角度,可以保证成衣规格的准确性,并可提高服装的品质与形态的可预见性。

Woven clothing materials with different yarn angle may have different performance, and thus will have a direct effect on theappearance and comfort of the garment and on the correctness of industrial pattern in garment manufacturing. Five kinds of fabrics are selectedto produce garment with yarn angle of 0°, 30°and 45° respectively, and the specification change in garment circumference under the gravityof fabric itself is analyzed and its change law is summed up with SPSS through data statistics and analysis. The study shows that the yarn angleand the drape coefficient of fabric itself both have great effect on the garment circumference specification. In the process of plate-making,proper selection of yarn angle in the process of garment can guarantee the accuracy of the garment specification and improve the garmentquality and foreseen ability of the shape.