从佐藤真的观察看民初丝织业的转型与纹样嬗变

The Transformation of the Silk Industry and Pattern in the Early Republic of China from Sato Makoto's Observation

日本机织家佐藤真,1911年受聘于新创办的浙江省立甲种工业学校,任机织教员。此时正值我国丝织业从手工业向工业化转型的起步阶段,大量引进装有贾卡龙头的新式提花机,纹制业开始兴起,与此同时,服饰及其纹样也从传统向现代转变。佐藤真在教学之余对杭州丝织业作了详细观察,并著文向日本国内介绍。从佐藤真的观察分析民初服饰纹样的嬗变,除了人们审美观的变化外,新技术的引进、设计方法的变革和激烈的市场竞争都起到了直接的作用。

Sato Makoto,a Japanese weaver,was hired as a weaving instructor in the newly established Zhejiang Province A-type Industrial School in 1911.At that time,a large number of new jacquard machines equipped with Jacquard bibcocks were introduced at the initial transformation stage of the China’s silk industry from handicraft industry to industrialization,along with the rise of the pattern industry.At the same time,clothing and its patterns changed from traditional to modern.Sato Makoto really made a detailed observation of the Hangzhou silk industry in addition to teaching and introduced it to Japan by writing articles.According to Sato Makoto’s observation and analysis of the transformation of patterns in the Early Republic of China,it was directly influenced by the introduction of new technologies,the transformation of design methods as well as fierce market competition besides the changes in people’s aesthetics.