男西服后身结构纸样优化的研究

A Study on Optimizing the Back Structure Design of Men's Suits

从整体上讲,男西服属于合体性服装,合体性服装的裁剪与制版技术相当重要,它与非合体性服装、半合体性服装不同,其服装的结构设计必须取决于三维人体的尺寸和体型,只有尺寸值而无形体轮廓参数,是无法设计出合体的西服。然而,往往在具体结构版型的制作中会忽略其合体的廓形,一件得体端庄的西服会彰显出男士的特有气质和形象。故而合体的西服外形轮廓,直接影响男西服穿着的舒适性,也是男西服在结构上体现的重要因素之一。本文通过对男西装后身部位结构的研究,从廓形审视的角度去理解结构的重要性,以结构的优化改变来完成现实工艺制作中无法稳定和把握的形体要求因素,达到永久的定型目的。

Generally speaking, men's suits are fit clothing whose cutting and pattern-making technology is critical for its fitness. Unlike non-fit clothing or semi-fit clothing, the structure design of fit clothing depends on the size and contour of 3D human body. It's impossible to design fit suit with size alone. However, contour is often neglected in pattern making. Well-designed silhouette will not only highlight men's unique temperament and image, but also directly affect their comfort. Based on studying the back part of men's suit structure, this article reviews the importance of structure from a perspective of silhouettes. It optimizes structure design in order to solve technical problems of instability in the production process, finally achieving a permanent setting purpose.