国产精纺毛料风格特征考查

The Research of Hand Characteristics of the Domestic Worsted Fabrics

采集 43种国产精纺毛料 ,用KESFB风格仪测试出试样的 16项基本力学指标 ,用日本 2 0世纪 70年代开发的男士西服面料和 90年代开发的女士服装面料的风格评价方法评价面料的成形性和手感性能 ,发现目前的国产精纺面料仍然主要适合制服类服装 ,很难找到适合悬垂类和宽松挺括类服装的精纺毛料。同时 ,目前国产精纺毛料用做男士西服面料时手感好的不多 ;用作女士西服面料时与化纤面料相比手感的客观评价值仍然较高。

basic mechanics parameters of 43 kinds of worsted fabric gathered in domestic factory are measured with KES FB instrument, then silhouette and hand of those fabrics are evaluated with the evaluation methods of mens suit fabric that developed in 1970s and the evaluation methods of womens suit fabric that developed in 1990s. It is found that the present domestic worsted fabrics are still suitable for the tailored mainly, and it is difficult to find out the worsted fabrics which are suitable for the drape and the anti drape. Besides, there are few domestic worsted fabrics with good hand at present; when the fabrics are used as the women suit, the objective appraisal values of the worsted fabrics compared with those of chemical fibre fabrics are still relatively high.