明代毛纪《四朝恩遇图》人物服饰研究

Studies on the Costumes of the Human Figures in Si Chao Enyu Tu (Illustrations of the Honors Conferred by Four Emperors) Painted by Mao Ji of the Ming Dynasty

《四朝恩遇图》为明代首辅毛纪(1463～1545年)于嘉靖十年(1531年)所作,书中绘制了十六幅其在成化、弘治、正德、嘉靖四朝为官和致仕后所着各类冠服的画像,对应十六篇题记,辅以相关谕旨、进表、记事十二篇。该书仅存世明代手写稿本一册,现藏于中国社会科学院历史研究所图书馆。本文首次刊布了稿本封面以及部分图页,并在考证毛纪生平与记录稿本信息基础上,结合文献,着重对十六幅图中所描绘的明代文官全部官服系列的服饰包括进士服、庶吉士服、常服、赐服、祭服、公服、朝服和忠靖服予以研究。

Si Chao Enyu Tu(Illustrations of the Honors Conferred by Four Emperors)is the work of Mao Ji(1463-1545),the shoufu(senior grand secretary,quasi-prime minister)of the Ming Dynasty,finished in the tenth year of Jiajing reign period(1531).In this work,Mao painted 16 self-portraits in various dresses when he was on official posts during Chenghua(1465-1487),Hongzhi(1488-1505),Zhengde(1506-1521)and Jiajing(1522-1566)reign periods and after his retirement;corresponding to these self-portraits,he wrote 16 captions and attached the imperial edicts,memoirs he presented to the emperors and notes related to them.This work has only a manual transcript of the Ming Dynasty preserved to date,which is collected in the library of the Institute of History,Chinese Academy of Social Sciences.This paper publishes the front cover and some illustrations of this transcript for the first time,and,based on the examinations to Mao Ji’s official career and the messages carried by the manual transcript with references of historical works,studies the jinshi(metropolitan graduate)regalia,shujishi(Hanlin bachelor)dress,changfu(everyday dress),cifu(dress with imperially bestowed or permitted transgressing designs),jifu(sacrificial ceremonial dresses),gongfu(audience dress),chaofu(court dress)and zhongjing fu('loyal and tranquil dress',leisure dress for civil officials)shown in these portraits,which included the entire civil official dress system of the Ming Dynasty.