文山苗族传统服饰刺绣的符号学解析

A Semiotic Analysis of Embroidery in Traditional Clothing of Miao Nationality in Wenshan

文山是苗族的聚居地之一,传统苗族服饰不仅具有极高的观赏价值,而且还蕴藏着丰富的文化内涵,尤其服饰中的精美刺绣以符号的形式承载着苗族的历史。文章主要采用田野调查法、观察法和文献研究法来分析文山苗族传统服饰的刺绣图纹内容、颜色和构图形式。在刺绣图纹方面,文山苗族传统服饰的刺绣图纹总体可以分为几何图纹、植物图纹、动物图纹和其他图纹;服饰颜色具有'底布深沉,装饰鲜艳''远看色彩近看花'的特点;在刺绣结构的变化上遵循重复、对称等构图法则和审美观念。正是因为在内容、构图形式及色彩明暗等各元素的排列组合,才使得文山苗族传统服饰的搭配具有层次分明的视觉效果和丰富的内涵。

Wenshan is one of the Miao people’s habitats.Traditional Miao people’s clothing not only has high ornamental value,but also contains rich cultural connotations.Especially,the fine embroidery of clothing are invested with the history of Miao people in the form of symbols.This article mainly uses the methods of field investigation,observation and literature research to analyze the embroidery pattern content,color and composition of traditional clothing of Wenshan Miao nationality.In terms of embroidery patterns,the embroidery patterns of the traditional clothing of the Miao nationality in Wenshan can be divided into geometric patterns,plant patterns,animal patterns and other patterns.The color of the clothing has the characteristics of'deep cloth,bright decoration'and'looking at flowers from a far-sighted perspective'.The changes of the embroidery structure follow the principles of composition such as repetition,symmetry and aesthetic concepts.It is precisely because of the arrangement and combination of elements such as content,composition,color and shade that makes the collocation of traditional clothing of Wenshan Miao nationality have clear visual effect and rich connotation.