真丝针织印花绸工艺技术总结

Technical Summing-Up of Real Silk Knit Printing

总结了真丝针织绸印花各工序的工艺技术条件。经验是:采用JTS溢流机精练、绳状机染色工艺,色柳和直向皱印明显减少;印花前整理采用反面平轧加大超喂量,降低纵横向张力,可防卷边;剖幅打卷时要尽量减小张力,且剖幅边道要齐直;贴绸采用新方法,印花刮印4刀,台板温度控制得低一些;整理采用松式烘燥、超喂拉幅。

The technical conditions for individual stages in printing real silk knits are summed up. Forexample, scouring with overflow beck JTS and dyeing with winch may diminish colour streaks andvertical crease marks; reverse open-width pad-treatment under higher overfeed prior to printingand lower vertical/horizontal tension prove effective for anti-edge-curl. Other experiences include:minimum tension for knit slitting and batching; trim selvedges in slitting; new process for knitlaying; four-stroke printing; lower temperature for printing table; tensionless drying and overfeedtentering.