墨子实用主义的“非乐”服饰美学思想

Mozi and his non-musical and pragmatic esthetics of apparels

墨子,是战国初期墨家学派的创始人。他从"万人不可衣短褐"所演绎出来的狭义"非乐"观和"衣服带履,便于身"的广义"非乐"观,是他实用主义的"非乐"服饰美学思想的核心内涵;既有相对的进步性,又有相对的局限性。他所揭示的关于"染苍"、"染黄"的服饰审美文化现象与社会风尚紧密联系的学说等,则是对中国服饰美学思想蕴涵的丰富和贡献。

Mozi is the founder of Mohism in the early Warring States. The specific nonmusical interpretation of the proposition that ″people cannot wear short and shabby clothes″, together with the general nonmusical understanding of the assumption that ″whatever one wears should suit oneself″ may be considered as the key to his pragmatic and nonmusical esthetics of apparels. This is both progressive and regressive. Furthermore, his advocacy of green or yellow coloring of the clothes reflects a close relationship between the apparel esthetics and the reality, and it speaks for Mohist contribution to Chinese esthetics of apparels.