棉纬平针织服装扭曲变形的机理及控制

Mechanism and Control of Distorted Deformation of Pure cotton Knitted Garments

棉纬平针织服装扭曲变形一般分为两种:一种是服装在穿着前的织物丝路歪斜(即织物的纵行与横列不垂直;另一种是在穿着水洗几次后的服装侧缝的扭曲。丝路歪斜对商品的外观产生直接的影响,通常在生产中可以控制。侧缝扭曲会影响消费者的服用外观,将直接影响消费者对产品的需求。服装扭曲变形是由棉纱的剩余扭力矩造成的。若要减少织物的扭曲变形,则要设法减少纱线的剩余扭力矩。为此可通过采用弹性模量较小的棉纤维、采用合适的纱结构及参数、优选织物的结构和参数、加速棉纤维的松弛等方法来解决。

The distorted deformation of pure cotton knitted garments can be classified into two categaries: one is straying end beforewearing, i.e., the wale is not perpendicular to the course, the other is the distortion of side seam line. Straying end problemwill affect negatively the appearance of fabric, which should be usually controlled in producing process. The side seam linedistortion will influence the consumer demand directly. The existance of residual torque of yarn is the main reason to bringabout the distorted deformation of knitted fabrics. Accordingly, the cotton fiber with low elastic modulus should be taken,proper yarn and fabric parameters should be chosen, and the processing of accelerating the relaxation of cotton fiber shouldbe taken in order to decrease the distorted deformation.