关于清代帝后朝服与朝服像的几点看法

A Discussion of Portraits in Regalia of Qing Dynasty Emperors and Empresses and Several Ways of Viewing Court Dress

通过对故宫现藏帝后朝服与朝服像的系统排比,结合有关文献研究,作者认为:1、康熙的4幅半身肖像画分别为两幅朝服像的稿本;2、清代帝后朝服像可分为写生像和祭祀像,祭祀像的背景是程式化的,自康熙以后的皇帝服饰,乾隆以后的皇后服饰是写实的,与制度基本吻合,并表现出时代特征,而此前帝后朝服像中的服饰存在着虚构想象的成分;3、康熙《大清会典》记载的服饰形式是康熙青年时期的,雍正《大清会典》记载的则应是康熙晚年和雍正时期的服饰面貌。雍正元年颁布的服饰制度在康熙晚年已经付诸实施。

In light of the portraits of Qing dynasty emperors and empresses in court dress and the items of royalclothing in the Palace Museum collection and with reference to documentary research, the author maintainsthat: (1) the four half-figure portraits of the Kangxi Emperor are separately based on two full portraits of theemperor in court regalia; (2) Qing dynasty portraits of emperors and empresses in court dress can be dividedinto portraits drawn from life (xieshengxiang) and portraits for sacrificial-ritual purposes, the latter featuringformulaic backgrounds; (3) of Qing dynasty portraits of emperors and empresses in court dress, the apparelworn by emperors from the Kangxi Emperor onwards and that worn by empresses from the time of the QianlongEmperor onwards are drawn from life and are in conformity with ritual prescriptions, while also includingfashion elements, but prior to these two reigns, the dress worn by emperors and empresses, respectively, revealselements of imaginative play; (4) the form of apparel described in the Da Qing huidian of the Kangxi reigndates from the early years of his reign, while the Yongzheng reign edition of Da Qing huidian records theapparel worn by the Kangxi Emperor in his later years and by the Yongzheng Emperor during his reign. Theregulations governing court dress issued by the Yongzheng Emperor in the first year of his reign were in factthose already adopted in the late years of the Kangxi Emperor's reign.