亻革家女盛装贯首衣的形态特征与传承应用研究

A Study on the Morphological Characteristics and Inheritance Application of the Dress Full Guanshou Dress of Ge Jia

据历史记载,亻革家人这一族群聚居在贵州黄平一带已有700余年,亻革家女盛装又被称为古装、古戎装,载荷着记录族群历史的重任,是族群文化历史发展演变和族群独特性文化的重要标志。本文以亻革家女盛装中的贯首衣为案例,通过在贵州黄平重兴乡望坝村进行田野调查时搜集到的样本数据,对贯首衣的制作方式、穿着方式、构成要素等进行分析,并结合亻革家的生活习俗、族群心理等,探求影响贯首衣形制结构形成的内外因素及其传承方式,以期为设计师进行亻革家人服饰创新设计时提供参考。

According to historical records, the Ge Jia ethnic group has been living in Huangping, Guizhou for more than 700 years. The Ge Jia women’s dress, also known as ancient dress or ancient military dress, bears the important task of recording the history of the ethnic group, and is an important symbol of the historical development and evolution of ethnic culture and ethnic unique culture. Taking Guanshou dress as a case, through the sample data collected during field investigation in Wangba Village, Chongxing Township, Huangping, Guizhou Province, this paper analyzes the making method, wearing method and constituent elements of Guanshou dress, and combined with the life customs and national psychology of Ge Jia, explore the internal and external factors affecting the formation of Guanshou dress shape structure and its inheritance mode. In order to provide refer-ence for the designer to carry out the innovative design of the dress of the Ge Jia.