摘要
This article describes transformation of nonlinear surface gravity waves under shallow-water conditions with the aid of the suggested semigraphical method. There are given profiles of surface gravity waves on the crests steepening stages, their leading edges steepening. There are discussed the spectral component influence on the transformation of surface wave profile.
This article describes transformation of nonlinear surface gravity waves under shallow-water conditions with the aid of the suggested semigraphical method. There are given profiles of surface gravity waves on the crests steepening stages, their leading edges steepening. There are discussed the spectral component influence on the transformation of surface wave profile.