楦面三段展平方法的研究

Study on shoe last three-section flattening method

针对帮面材料的弹性缩变量有限的特点,依据帮面成型过程中平面样版与楦曲面的相似相近原理,提出了对楦面展平贴取侧面样版方法及操作要点.将侧面样版作为分割帮样结构的基础,为了使侧面样版具备与楦面相近相似的形态,采用三段分割展平贴取侧面样版的方法,明确侧面样版所需体现的跷度量和跷度位置.经过实践验证,采用三段分割展平侧面样版取样方法,可以通过三线长度比例的调整,使高难度的取跷处理变为极简操作,且具有帮面形态稳定的特点,可以有效提高鞋类样版的设计效率与设计精度.

As the materials’ elasticity is limited, the last flattening and side upper pattern getting method and operation points were put forward according to the similarity principles of f lat pattern and last surface during lasting of shoe upper. The side pattern is the basis of upper pattern segmentation. The shape of side pattern got from three-section f lattening method is similar to last surface, and the height and location of toe spring are clear. Practice indicates that the difficult process of toe spring disposing becomes simple by regulating the proportions of three lines. The method can make the lasting of shoe upper stable and improve the design eff iciency and accuracy of footwear pattern effectively.