Based on the full water-wave equation, a second-order analytic solution for nonlinear interaction of short edge waves on a plane sloping bottom is presented in this paper. For special ease of slope angle β = π/2, th...Based on the full water-wave equation, a second-order analytic solution for nonlinear interaction of short edge waves on a plane sloping bottom is presented in this paper. For special ease of slope angle β = π/2, this solution can reduced to the same order solution of deep water gravity surface waves traveling along parallel coastline. Interactions between two edge waves including progressive, standing and partially reflected standing waves are also discussed. The unified analytic expressions with transfer functions for kinematic-dynamic elements of edge waves are also given. The random model of the unified wave motion processes for linear and nonlinear irregular edge waves is formulated, and the corresponding theoreti- cal autocorrelation and spectral density functions of the first and the second orders are derived. The boundary conditions for the determination of the parameters of short edge wave are suggested, that may be seen as one special simple edge wave excitation mechanism and an extension to the sea wave refraction theory. Finally some computation results are demonstrated.展开更多
A numerical model for wave diffracrion-refraction in water of varying current and topography is proposed, and time-dependent wave mild-slope equation with a dissipation term and corresponding equivalent: governing equ...A numerical model for wave diffracrion-refraction in water of varying current and topography is proposed, and time-dependent wave mild-slope equation with a dissipation term and corresponding equivalent: governing equations are presented. Two different expressions of parabolic approximations for the case of the absence of current are also given and analyzed. The influence of current on the results of simulation of waves is discussed. Some examples show that the present model is better than others in simulating wave transformation in large water areas. And they also show that the influence of current should be taken into account, on numerical modeling of wave propagation in water of strong current and coastal areas, otherwise the modeling results will be largely distorted.展开更多
文摘Based on the full water-wave equation, a second-order analytic solution for nonlinear interaction of short edge waves on a plane sloping bottom is presented in this paper. For special ease of slope angle β = π/2, this solution can reduced to the same order solution of deep water gravity surface waves traveling along parallel coastline. Interactions between two edge waves including progressive, standing and partially reflected standing waves are also discussed. The unified analytic expressions with transfer functions for kinematic-dynamic elements of edge waves are also given. The random model of the unified wave motion processes for linear and nonlinear irregular edge waves is formulated, and the corresponding theoreti- cal autocorrelation and spectral density functions of the first and the second orders are derived. The boundary conditions for the determination of the parameters of short edge wave are suggested, that may be seen as one special simple edge wave excitation mechanism and an extension to the sea wave refraction theory. Finally some computation results are demonstrated.
基金Science Foundation of National Education Committee of China,(Grant No.9429405)
文摘A numerical model for wave diffracrion-refraction in water of varying current and topography is proposed, and time-dependent wave mild-slope equation with a dissipation term and corresponding equivalent: governing equations are presented. Two different expressions of parabolic approximations for the case of the absence of current are also given and analyzed. The influence of current on the results of simulation of waves is discussed. Some examples show that the present model is better than others in simulating wave transformation in large water areas. And they also show that the influence of current should be taken into account, on numerical modeling of wave propagation in water of strong current and coastal areas, otherwise the modeling results will be largely distorted.
