An experimental study is carried out for waves passing an isolated reef terrain in a wave tank. A three-dimensional model of a representative and isolated reef terrain in the West Pacific is built. Random wave trains ...An experimental study is carried out for waves passing an isolated reef terrain in a wave tank. A three-dimensional model of a representative and isolated reef terrain in the West Pacific is built. Random wave trains with various periods and wave heights are generated by a wave maker using the improved JONSWAP spectrum. It is observed that there are different kinds of generation processes and waveforms of freak waves. The freak wave factor Hm/Hs (where Hm is the maximum wave height of wave series, and Hs is significant wave height) is analyzed in detail, in terms of the skewness, kurtosis and water depth, as well as the relationship between freak wave height H& and skewness. The freak wave factor Hm/Hs is found to be in positive correlation with the kurtosis, while larger H[x tends to be related with bigger skewness. The rapid variation of water depth, such as slope and seamount, contributes to the occurrence probability of freak waves.展开更多
基金The Qingdao National Laboratory for Marine Science and Technology under contract No.QNLM20160RP0402the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 51522902 and 51579040+1 种基金the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities under contract No.DUT17ZD233the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology of China under contract No.[2016]22
文摘An experimental study is carried out for waves passing an isolated reef terrain in a wave tank. A three-dimensional model of a representative and isolated reef terrain in the West Pacific is built. Random wave trains with various periods and wave heights are generated by a wave maker using the improved JONSWAP spectrum. It is observed that there are different kinds of generation processes and waveforms of freak waves. The freak wave factor Hm/Hs (where Hm is the maximum wave height of wave series, and Hs is significant wave height) is analyzed in detail, in terms of the skewness, kurtosis and water depth, as well as the relationship between freak wave height H& and skewness. The freak wave factor Hm/Hs is found to be in positive correlation with the kurtosis, while larger H[x tends to be related with bigger skewness. The rapid variation of water depth, such as slope and seamount, contributes to the occurrence probability of freak waves.
