Studies on the possible effects of a detached breakwater on the characteristics of the wave field are carried out experimentally. A serpentine wave generator is used to generate both uni- and multi- directional waves....Studies on the possible effects of a detached breakwater on the characteristics of the wave field are carried out experimentally. A serpentine wave generator is used to generate both uni- and multi- directional waves. Characteristics of the wave fields analyzed here include the wave field directionality, and the probability distributions of surface elevations and of the wave heights. Owing to the presence of the breakwater. waves outside the harbour are Found to be reflected with, however, concentrated energy within the harbour entrance. In general. wave heights can be approximated with a Rayleigh distribution, with occasional deviations from the theory. This occurs more frequently for waves with higher peak frequency values than for those with lower values both for uni- and multi-directional waves. Surface elevations can be approximated with the Gaussian model, although the Edgeworth's form of the type A Gram- Charlier series expansions would yield better fits. Wave directionality is found to have no discernible effects on the statistical characteristics of the wave field.展开更多
Probability distributions of wave phases in association with distributions of surface elevations are studied with wave records. Wave records of different nature are used for comparison. These are surface fluctuations ...Probability distributions of wave phases in association with distributions of surface elevations are studied with wave records. Wave records of different nature are used for comparison. These are surface fluctuations acquired during wind wave flume experiments, representing wave generation under strong wind; and wave records measured in the northern part of Taiwan for waves in natural environments. Three probability models, the unifrom distribution, the beta distribution, and a model from Tayfun and Lo (1989) are adopted to study the possible distributions of wave phases. It is found that when surface elevations become skewed, wave phases deviate from the usually assumed uniform distribution and a better model would be the beta distribution.展开更多
Reflection and transmission of random waves from submerged ohstacles under various conditions are investigated in this study by means of the boundary element method. The algorithm is based on the Lagrangian descriptio...Reflection and transmission of random waves from submerged ohstacles under various conditions are investigated in this study by means of the boundary element method. The algorithm is based on the Lagrangian description with finite difference adopted for the approximation of time derivative. The accuracy of the model is confirmed by a previous study of the transmission of irregular waves in a water tank without any obstacle, under which sets of submerged breakwaters are located. To reduce the effect of reflection from the wall, a sponge zone is employed at the other end of the flume as an artificial absorbing beach. The power spectrum of Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu type defined by significant wave height, H1/3, and period, T1/3, is employed for the condition of incident waves chosen for the generation of irregular waves. Time histofies of water elevations are measured with numerous pseudo wave gages on the free water surface. With reference to the method for the estimation of irregular incident and reflected waves in random sea presented by Goda and Suzuki （1976）, the dissipation efficiency of the breakwaters is investigated. Gauges in different positions are tested for their suitability for the estimation of reflection coefficients for irregular waves. The present results demonstrate the effectiveness of the estimation of reflection coefficient for random waves, and indicate the feasibility of the numerical model.展开更多
A numerical wave tank with passive absorption for irregular waves is considered in this paper. Waves with spectral shapes corresponding to that of the Mitsuyasu- Bretschneider type are used as the initial condition at...A numerical wave tank with passive absorption for irregular waves is considered in this paper. Waves with spectral shapes corresponding to that of the Mitsuyasu- Bretschneider type are used as the initial condition at one end of the flume, An absorbing boundary is imposed at the other end of the wave flume to minimize reflection. By use of a Lagrangian description for the Surface elevation, and finite difference for approximation of the time derivative, the problem is then solved by the boundary element method, The effects of the absorbing boundary are investigated by varying the values of the absorption coefficient mu, and studying the time histories of the Surface elevations 'recorded' on pre-selected locations.展开更多
文摘Studies on the possible effects of a detached breakwater on the characteristics of the wave field are carried out experimentally. A serpentine wave generator is used to generate both uni- and multi- directional waves. Characteristics of the wave fields analyzed here include the wave field directionality, and the probability distributions of surface elevations and of the wave heights. Owing to the presence of the breakwater. waves outside the harbour are Found to be reflected with, however, concentrated energy within the harbour entrance. In general. wave heights can be approximated with a Rayleigh distribution, with occasional deviations from the theory. This occurs more frequently for waves with higher peak frequency values than for those with lower values both for uni- and multi-directional waves. Surface elevations can be approximated with the Gaussian model, although the Edgeworth's form of the type A Gram- Charlier series expansions would yield better fits. Wave directionality is found to have no discernible effects on the statistical characteristics of the wave field.
文摘Probability distributions of wave phases in association with distributions of surface elevations are studied with wave records. Wave records of different nature are used for comparison. These are surface fluctuations acquired during wind wave flume experiments, representing wave generation under strong wind; and wave records measured in the northern part of Taiwan for waves in natural environments. Three probability models, the unifrom distribution, the beta distribution, and a model from Tayfun and Lo (1989) are adopted to study the possible distributions of wave phases. It is found that when surface elevations become skewed, wave phases deviate from the usually assumed uniform distribution and a better model would be the beta distribution.
文摘Reflection and transmission of random waves from submerged ohstacles under various conditions are investigated in this study by means of the boundary element method. The algorithm is based on the Lagrangian description with finite difference adopted for the approximation of time derivative. The accuracy of the model is confirmed by a previous study of the transmission of irregular waves in a water tank without any obstacle, under which sets of submerged breakwaters are located. To reduce the effect of reflection from the wall, a sponge zone is employed at the other end of the flume as an artificial absorbing beach. The power spectrum of Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu type defined by significant wave height, H1/3, and period, T1/3, is employed for the condition of incident waves chosen for the generation of irregular waves. Time histofies of water elevations are measured with numerous pseudo wave gages on the free water surface. With reference to the method for the estimation of irregular incident and reflected waves in random sea presented by Goda and Suzuki （1976）, the dissipation efficiency of the breakwaters is investigated. Gauges in different positions are tested for their suitability for the estimation of reflection coefficients for irregular waves. The present results demonstrate the effectiveness of the estimation of reflection coefficient for random waves, and indicate the feasibility of the numerical model.
基金The authors wish to express their gratitude for the financial aid of the National Science Council, China.Project Nos. NSC-89-2611-E-019-027(CRC)and NSC-89-2611-E-019-058(JZY).
文摘A numerical wave tank with passive absorption for irregular waves is considered in this paper. Waves with spectral shapes corresponding to that of the Mitsuyasu- Bretschneider type are used as the initial condition at one end of the flume, An absorbing boundary is imposed at the other end of the wave flume to minimize reflection. By use of a Lagrangian description for the Surface elevation, and finite difference for approximation of the time derivative, the problem is then solved by the boundary element method, The effects of the absorbing boundary are investigated by varying the values of the absorption coefficient mu, and studying the time histories of the Surface elevations 'recorded' on pre-selected locations.
