In the present study, the surface elevation of wind waves observed in laboratory and in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the estimation of the wind wave frequency spectrtm by use of the method of the arcsine law （MAL）....In the present study, the surface elevation of wind waves observed in laboratory and in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the estimation of the wind wave frequency spectrtm by use of the method of the arcsine law （MAL）. The traditional method uses the surface elevation to calculate the correlation and then estimate the frequency spectrum while the MAL, presented by Yu and l.an （1979）, uses the time sequence of zero-crossing points of surface elevation rather than directly the surface elevation to calculate the correlation. 66 sets of wind wave data obtained in laboratory and 420 sets of data observed in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the examination of the method introduced by Yu and Lan. Results show that the MAL can give reliable estimation of wind wave spectra. Correlation and form of spectra estimated by the MAL are similar to those estimated by the traditional method. The peak frequency and the spectral density in peak frequency by the MAL are close to those obtained by the traditional method.展开更多
In a two-dimensional and linear framework, a transformation was developed to derive eigensolutions of internal waves over a subcritical hyperbolic slope and to approximate the continental slope and shelf. The transfor...In a two-dimensional and linear framework, a transformation was developed to derive eigensolutions of internal waves over a subcritical hyperbolic slope and to approximate the continental slope and shelf. The transformation converts a hyperbolic slope in physical space into a flat bottom in transform space while the governing equations of internal waves remain hyperbolic. The eigensolutions are further used to study the evolution of linear internal waves as it propagates to subcritical continental slope and shelf. The stream function, velocity, and vertical shear of velocity induced by internal wave at the hyperbolic slope are analytically expressed by superposition of the obtained eigensolutions. The velocity and velocity shear increase as the internal wave propagates to a hyperbolic slope. They become very large especially when the slope of internal wave rays approaches the topographic slope, which is consistent with the previous studies.展开更多
A probability density function of surface elevation is obtained through improvement of the method introduced by Cieslikiewicz who employed the maximum entropy principle to investigate the surface elevation distributio...A probability density function of surface elevation is obtained through improvement of the method introduced by Cieslikiewicz who employed the maximum entropy principle to investigate the surface elevation distribution. The density function can be easily extended to higher order according to demand and is non-negative everywhere, satisfying the basic behavior of the probability, Moreover because the distribution is derived without any assumption about sea waves, it is found from comparison with several accepted distributions that the new form of distribution can be applied in a wider range of wave conditions, In addition, the density function can be used to fit some observed distributions of surface vertical acceleration although something remains unsolved.展开更多
Laboratory experiments are conducted to study the probability distribution of surface elevation for wind waves and the convergence is discussed of the Gram-Charlier series in describing the surface elevation distribut...Laboratory experiments are conducted to study the probability distribution of surface elevation for wind waves and the convergence is discussed of the Gram-Charlier series in describing the surface elevation distribution. Results show that the agreement between the Gram-Charlier series and the observed distribution becomes better and better as the truncated order of the series increases in a certain range, which is contrary to the phenomenon observed by Huang and Long (1980). It is also shown that the Gram-Charlier series is sensitive to the anomalies in the data set which will make the agreement worse if they are not preprocessed appropriately. Negative values of the probability distribution expressed by the Gram-Charlier series in some ranges of surface elevations are discussed, but the absolute values of the negative values as well as the ranges of their occurrence become smaller gradually as more and mote terms are included. Therefore the negative values will have no evident effect on the form of the whole surface elevation distribution when the series is truncated at higher orders. Furthermore, a simple recurrence formula is obtained to calculate the coefficients of the Gram-Charlier series in order to extend the Gram-Charlier series to high orders conveniently.展开更多
基金This project was financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.40406008) the Foundation for Open Projects of the Key Laboratory of Physical Oceanography,Ministry of Education,China(Grant No.200309)
文摘In the present study, the surface elevation of wind waves observed in laboratory and in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the estimation of the wind wave frequency spectrtm by use of the method of the arcsine law （MAL）. The traditional method uses the surface elevation to calculate the correlation and then estimate the frequency spectrum while the MAL, presented by Yu and l.an （1979）, uses the time sequence of zero-crossing points of surface elevation rather than directly the surface elevation to calculate the correlation. 66 sets of wind wave data obtained in laboratory and 420 sets of data observed in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the examination of the method introduced by Yu and Lan. Results show that the MAL can give reliable estimation of wind wave spectra. Correlation and form of spectra estimated by the MAL are similar to those estimated by the traditional method. The peak frequency and the spectral density in peak frequency by the MAL are close to those obtained by the traditional method.
基金Supported by the National Nature Science Foundation of China (No.40406008 and 40876015)the Foundation for Open Projects of the Key Lab of Physical Oceanography,The Ministry of Education,China (No.200309).
文摘In a two-dimensional and linear framework, a transformation was developed to derive eigensolutions of internal waves over a subcritical hyperbolic slope and to approximate the continental slope and shelf. The transformation converts a hyperbolic slope in physical space into a flat bottom in transform space while the governing equations of internal waves remain hyperbolic. The eigensolutions are further used to study the evolution of linear internal waves as it propagates to subcritical continental slope and shelf. The stream function, velocity, and vertical shear of velocity induced by internal wave at the hyperbolic slope are analytically expressed by superposition of the obtained eigensolutions. The velocity and velocity shear increase as the internal wave propagates to a hyperbolic slope. They become very large especially when the slope of internal wave rays approaches the topographic slope, which is consistent with the previous studies.
基金This project was financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.49876012,49976003)
文摘A probability density function of surface elevation is obtained through improvement of the method introduced by Cieslikiewicz who employed the maximum entropy principle to investigate the surface elevation distribution. The density function can be easily extended to higher order according to demand and is non-negative everywhere, satisfying the basic behavior of the probability, Moreover because the distribution is derived without any assumption about sea waves, it is found from comparison with several accepted distributions that the new form of distribution can be applied in a wider range of wave conditions, In addition, the density function can be used to fit some observed distributions of surface vertical acceleration although something remains unsolved.
基金This project was financially supported by the National Nature Science Foundation of China(Grant No.49876012,49976003)
文摘Laboratory experiments are conducted to study the probability distribution of surface elevation for wind waves and the convergence is discussed of the Gram-Charlier series in describing the surface elevation distribution. Results show that the agreement between the Gram-Charlier series and the observed distribution becomes better and better as the truncated order of the series increases in a certain range, which is contrary to the phenomenon observed by Huang and Long (1980). It is also shown that the Gram-Charlier series is sensitive to the anomalies in the data set which will make the agreement worse if they are not preprocessed appropriately. Negative values of the probability distribution expressed by the Gram-Charlier series in some ranges of surface elevations are discussed, but the absolute values of the negative values as well as the ranges of their occurrence become smaller gradually as more and mote terms are included. Therefore the negative values will have no evident effect on the form of the whole surface elevation distribution when the series is truncated at higher orders. Furthermore, a simple recurrence formula is obtained to calculate the coefficients of the Gram-Charlier series in order to extend the Gram-Charlier series to high orders conveniently.
