Because of shoaling, refraction, friction, and other effects, a surface-wave propagating on a gently sloping bottom of slope will eventually break. In this paper, by nonlinearizing the problem and using a perturbation...Because of shoaling, refraction, friction, and other effects, a surface-wave propagating on a gently sloping bottom of slope will eventually break. In this paper, by nonlinearizing the problem and using a perturbation method, an analytical solution for the velocity potential is derived to the second order for the bottom slope a and the wave steepness e in a Eulerian system. Then, the wave profile and the breaking wave characteristics are found by transforming the flow field into a Lagrangian system. By use of the kinematic stability parameter （K. S. P. ）, new theoretical breaker characteristics are derived. Thus, the linear theories of other scholars are extended to breaking waves. A Comparison of the present analytical solution with experimental studies of other scholars shows reasonable agreement except that the breaking depth is underestimated.展开更多
文摘Because of shoaling, refraction, friction, and other effects, a surface-wave propagating on a gently sloping bottom of slope will eventually break. In this paper, by nonlinearizing the problem and using a perturbation method, an analytical solution for the velocity potential is derived to the second order for the bottom slope a and the wave steepness e in a Eulerian system. Then, the wave profile and the breaking wave characteristics are found by transforming the flow field into a Lagrangian system. By use of the kinematic stability parameter （K. S. P. ）, new theoretical breaker characteristics are derived. Thus, the linear theories of other scholars are extended to breaking waves. A Comparison of the present analytical solution with experimental studies of other scholars shows reasonable agreement except that the breaking depth is underestimated.
