The particle trajectory on a weakly nonlinear progressive surface wave obliquely interacting with a uniform current is studied by using an Euler-Lagrange transformation.The third-order asymptotic solution is a periodi...The particle trajectory on a weakly nonlinear progressive surface wave obliquely interacting with a uniform current is studied by using an Euler-Lagrange transformation.The third-order asymptotic solution is a periodic bounded function of Lagrangian labels and time,which imply that the entire solution is uniformly-valid.The explicit parametric solution highlights the trajectory of a water particle and mass transport associated with a particle displacement can now be obtained directly in Lagrangian form.The angular frequency and Lagrangian mean level of the particle motion in Lagrangian form differ from those of the Eulerian.The variations in the water particle orbits resulting from the oblique interaction with a steady uniform current of different magnitudes are also investigated.展开更多
This paper studies the continuous evolution of breaking wave for the surface water waves propagating on a sloping beach. A Lagrangian asymptotic solution is derived. According to the solution coupled with the wave bre...This paper studies the continuous evolution of breaking wave for the surface water waves propagating on a sloping beach. A Lagrangian asymptotic solution is derived. According to the solution coupled with the wave breaking criteria and the equations of water particles motion, the wave deformation and the continuous wave breaking processes for the progressive water waves propagating on a sloping bottom can be derived. A series of experiments are also conducted to compare with the theoretical solution. The results show that the present solution can reasonably describe the plunging or spilling wave breaking phenomenon.展开更多
基金National Science Council in Taiwan 97-2221-E-230-023
文摘The particle trajectory on a weakly nonlinear progressive surface wave obliquely interacting with a uniform current is studied by using an Euler-Lagrange transformation.The third-order asymptotic solution is a periodic bounded function of Lagrangian labels and time,which imply that the entire solution is uniformly-valid.The explicit parametric solution highlights the trajectory of a water particle and mass transport associated with a particle displacement can now be obtained directly in Lagrangian form.The angular frequency and Lagrangian mean level of the particle motion in Lagrangian form differ from those of the Eulerian.The variations in the water particle orbits resulting from the oblique interaction with a steady uniform current of different magnitudes are also investigated.
基金supported by the Research Grant Council of the Science Center,Taiwan,through Project Nos.NSC99-2923-E-110-001-MY3,NSC99-2221-E-110-087-MY3,and NSC102-2911-I-006-302
文摘This paper studies the continuous evolution of breaking wave for the surface water waves propagating on a sloping beach. A Lagrangian asymptotic solution is derived. According to the solution coupled with the wave breaking criteria and the equations of water particles motion, the wave deformation and the continuous wave breaking processes for the progressive water waves propagating on a sloping bottom can be derived. A series of experiments are also conducted to compare with the theoretical solution. The results show that the present solution can reasonably describe the plunging or spilling wave breaking phenomenon.
