In this paper the propagation and breaking of the solitary wave,the sinusoidal wave and the second Stokes wave on a slope of 1/30 are discussed based upon the TUMMAC method,and the velocity fields of breaking waves on...In this paper the propagation and breaking of the solitary wave,the sinusoidal wave and the second Stokes wave on a slope of 1/30 are discussed based upon the TUMMAC method,and the velocity fields of breaking waves on the slope are obtained by using the tracing method.The.numerical results for wave deformation are in good agreement with experimental data,and the breaker indexes depending on the kinetic criterion agree approximately with previ- ous results.Furthermore,compared with the experimental results measured by Iwagaki and by the authors,the tendency of velocity distribution of breaking waves computed by this numerical method is also satisfactory.展开更多
文摘In this paper the propagation and breaking of the solitary wave,the sinusoidal wave and the second Stokes wave on a slope of 1/30 are discussed based upon the TUMMAC method,and the velocity fields of breaking waves on the slope are obtained by using the tracing method.The.numerical results for wave deformation are in good agreement with experimental data,and the breaker indexes depending on the kinetic criterion agree approximately with previ- ous results.Furthermore,compared with the experimental results measured by Iwagaki and by the authors,the tendency of velocity distribution of breaking waves computed by this numerical method is also satisfactory.
