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Wave prediction in a port using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq wave model 被引量:1
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作者 Young-Kwang Choi Seung-Nam Seo +2 位作者 Jin-Yong Choi fengyan shi Kwang-Soon Park 《Acta Oceanologica Sinica》 SCIE CAS CSCD 2019年第7期36-47,共12页
A wave forecasting system using FUNWAVE-TVD which is based on the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations by Chen(2006)was developed to provide an accurate wave prediction in the Port of Busan,South Korea.This system is ... A wave forecasting system using FUNWAVE-TVD which is based on the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations by Chen(2006)was developed to provide an accurate wave prediction in the Port of Busan,South Korea.This system is linked to the Korea Operational Oceanographic System(KOOS)developed by Park et al.(2015).The computational domain covers a region of 9.6 km×7.0 km with a grid size of 2 m in both directions,which is sufficient to resolve short waves and dominant sea states.The total number of grid points exceeds 16 millions,making the model computational expensive.To provide real-time forecasting,an interpolation method,which is based on pre-calculated results of FUNWAVE-TVD and SWAN forecasting results at the FUNWAVE-TVD offshore boundary,was used.A total of 45 cases were pre-calculated,which took 71 days on 924 computational cores of a Linux cluster system.Wind wave generation and propagation from the deep water were computed using the SWAN in KOOS.SWAN results provided a boundary condition for the FUNWAVE-TVD forecasting system.To verify the model,wave observations were conducted at three locations inside the port in a time period of more than 7 months.A model/model comparison between FUNWAVE-TVD and SWAN was also carried out.It is found that,FUNWAVE-TVD improves the forecasting results significantly compared to SWAN which underestimates wave heights in sheltered areas due to incorrect physical mechanism of wave diffraction,as well as large wave heights caused by wave reflections inside the port. 展开更多
关键词 real-time WAVE forecasting FUNWAVE-TVD SWAN KOOS WAVE observations WAVE DIFFRACTION
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A three-dimensional diffusion equation of suspended sediment by waves and currents 被引量:2
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作者 Pingxing Ding fengyan shi Yazhen Kong 《Chinese Science Bulletin》 SCIE EI CAS 1999年第19期1814-1817,共4页
Based on the law of mass conservation, a general three-dimensional diffusion equation of suspended sediment due to waves and currents, adaptable to estuarial and coastal areas, is derived by decomposing the instantane... Based on the law of mass conservation, a general three-dimensional diffusion equation of suspended sediment due to waves and currents, adaptable to estuarial and coastal areas, is derived by decomposing the instantaneous velocities and concentrations into three-dif-ferent-time-scale components respectively. A three-dimensional suspended sediment 展开更多
关键词 estuarial and COASTAL areas WAVES CURRENTS suspended DIFFUSION equation.
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