Under the action of marine currents,non-cohesive sediments evolve by bed-load,by saltation or suspension depending on their granulometry.Several authors have considered that the movement of sediment is bidimensional a...Under the action of marine currents,non-cohesive sediments evolve by bed-load,by saltation or suspension depending on their granulometry.Several authors have considered that the movement of sediment is bidimensional and modelized the effects of swell by a constant velocitynear the seabed.Here we have studied the velocity profile of fluctuating currents near the seabed and studied the movement of sediment in 3D.The results show that in the areas of study（surf and swash）the movement of sediment occurs in a volume,and the evolution of sediment varies from an areato another.The obtained theoretical profiles of the position and velocity vectors confirm the observations of several authors.展开更多
基金the "Ministère d’Etat Chargé de l’Enseignement Supérieure et de la Recherche Scientifque (MECESRS)" for their support during this work
文摘Under the action of marine currents,non-cohesive sediments evolve by bed-load,by saltation or suspension depending on their granulometry.Several authors have considered that the movement of sediment is bidimensional and modelized the effects of swell by a constant velocitynear the seabed.Here we have studied the velocity profile of fluctuating currents near the seabed and studied the movement of sediment in 3D.The results show that in the areas of study（surf and swash）the movement of sediment occurs in a volume,and the evolution of sediment varies from an areato another.The obtained theoretical profiles of the position and velocity vectors confirm the observations of several authors.
