Revisiting study on Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation over various reef profiles

To better understand the complex process of wave transformation and associated hydrodynamics over various fringing reef profiles, numerical experiments were conducted with a one-dimensional （1D） Boussinesq wave model. The model is based on higher-order Boussinesq equations and a higher-accuracy finite difference method. The dominant energy dissipation in the surf zone, wave breaking, and bottom friction were considered by use of the eddy viscosity concept and quadratic bottom friction law, respectively. Numerical simulation was conducted for a wide range of wave conditions and reef profiles. Good overall agreement between the computed results and the measurements shows that this model is capable of describing wave processes in the fringing reef environment. Numerical experiments were also conducted to track the source of underestimation of setup for highly nonlinear waves. Linear properties （including dispersion and shoaling） are found to contribute little to the underestimation; the low accuracy in nonlinearity and the ad hoc method for treating wave breaking may be the reason for the problem.

A TVD-WAF-based hybrid finite volume and finite difference scheme for nonlinearly dispersive wave equations

A total variation diminishing-weighted average flux （TVD-WAF）-based hybrid numerical scheme for the enhanced version of nonlinearly dispersive Boussinesq-type equations was developed. The one-dimensional governing equations were rewritten in the conservative form and then discretized on a uniform grid. The finite volume method was used to discretize the flux term while the remaining terms were approximated with the finite difference method. The second-order TVD-WAF method was employed in conjunction with the Harten-Lax-van Leer （HLL） Riemann solver to calculate the numerical flux, and the variables at the cell interface for the local Riemann problem were reconstructed via the fourth- order monotone upstream-centered scheme for conservation laws （MUSCL）. The time marching scheme based on the third-order TVD Runge- Kutta method was used to obtain numerical solutions. The model was validated through a series of numerical tests, in which wave breaking and a moving shoreline were treated. The good agreement between the computed results, documented analytical solutions, and experimental data demonstrates the correct discretization of the governing equations and high accuracy of the proposed scheme, and also conforms the advantages of the proposed shock-capturing scheme for the enhanced version of the Boussinesq model, including the convenience in the treatment of wave breaking and moving shorelines and without the need for a numerical filter.

A numerical piston-type wave-maker toolbox for the open-source library OpenFOAM

A novel numerical piston-type wave-maker toolbox for the OpenFOAM is developed and demonstrated in this paper. This toolbox is implemented in C++ for improving the solutions of nonlinear wave problems in the field of hydrodynamics. As a toolbox that generates waves using the piston-type method only, it contains several frequently used functions, including the generation and the absorption of waves of various forms, an active absorption system and the porous media flow. Furthermore, to illustrate the operability of the toolbox, some validations and applications are presented, including the regular waves, the irregular waves, and the solitary waves. In each case, a satisfactory agreement is obtained in comparison with the published experimental or theoretical results,so this toolbox may be applied with a considerable confidence.