Based on previous research results and experimental studies, this paper indicates the important factors affecting two-dimensional transformation of sandy beaches, especially the characteristic slope and sediment trans...Based on previous research results and experimental studies, this paper indicates the important factors affecting two-dimensional transformation of sandy beaches, especially the characteristic slope and sediment transport factor. A discrimination criterion of transformation type of sandy beaches is derived by applying the theory of wave energy dissipation rate. This criterion is closely examined with a lot of data and can be used to forecast the transformation of sandy beaches under the action of varying wave climates.展开更多
Engineers in coastal engineering have been paying much attention to the research subject on wave breaking. In this paper, previous research results on the calculating methods of wave breaking depth and height are enum...Engineers in coastal engineering have been paying much attention to the research subject on wave breaking. In this paper, previous research results on the calculating methods of wave breaking depth and height are enumerated, the laws of wave transformation before and after wave breaking are investigated, an adequate supposition is made, and the effect of beach slope, bed friction and breaking turbulence on wave breaking is considered. By applying the theory of wave energy dissipation rate and combining with proper formulas of solitary waves, a new calculating formula of wave breaking depth and height on the movable bed is derived and examined with the data from experimental pools of different sizes, and it is proved to be of practicability.展开更多
文摘Based on previous research results and experimental studies, this paper indicates the important factors affecting two-dimensional transformation of sandy beaches, especially the characteristic slope and sediment transport factor. A discrimination criterion of transformation type of sandy beaches is derived by applying the theory of wave energy dissipation rate. This criterion is closely examined with a lot of data and can be used to forecast the transformation of sandy beaches under the action of varying wave climates.
文摘Engineers in coastal engineering have been paying much attention to the research subject on wave breaking. In this paper, previous research results on the calculating methods of wave breaking depth and height are enumerated, the laws of wave transformation before and after wave breaking are investigated, an adequate supposition is made, and the effect of beach slope, bed friction and breaking turbulence on wave breaking is considered. By applying the theory of wave energy dissipation rate and combining with proper formulas of solitary waves, a new calculating formula of wave breaking depth and height on the movable bed is derived and examined with the data from experimental pools of different sizes, and it is proved to be of practicability.
