Advances in the Study of Anoectochilus Roxburghii Extracts and Prospects for Cosmetic Application Potentials

Cosmetics made from natural ingredients are becoming more and more common because they contain bioactive compounds that provide many health benefits,are more environmentally friendly and sustainable.Anoectochilus roxburghii(AR)is a precious Chinese herb in China,possessing bioactive components including flavonoids,polysaccharides,volatile oils,kinsenoside,etc.Due to its unique bioactivity and high safety,the prospect of development and utilization is very broad.In this paper,the extraction,separation and purification techniques of AR’s flavonoid,polysaccharides,volatile oils and kinsenoside are briefly summarized.Meanwhile,we discusses their conformational relationships in cosmetics with antioxidant,whitening,antibacterial and soothing effect,and looks forward to the study of Anoectochilus roxburghii in the field of cosmetics,with a view to providing references to the development and utilization of this resource in the field of cosmetics.

Research on Current Situation and Legal Regulation of Cosmetics Live Streaming E-commerce in China

Analyze the compatibility between cosmetics and live streaming e-commerce from its own nature,marketing means and supply chain characteristics.According to the prominent problems,sort out the relationship between all parties in the cosmetics live e-commerce industry chain.Combined with the latest regulatory policies of live streaming e-commerce and cosmetics,the responsibilities of different subjects in cosmetics live streaming e-commerce are summarized,and relevant suggestions and countermeasures are put forward for the standardization and development of live streaming e-commerce.Cosmetics brand owners are the first responsible persons for product quality.Anchors,as a mixed identity between intermediary,advertising spokesperson and operator,should bear stricter joint and several liability when recommending products related to consumers’health.If anchors fail to clearly identify themselves in the recommendation process,thus causing consumers to mistake them for the operator of the cosmetics,they should assume the obligations of the operator.

Study on the Efficacy Claim and Evaluation Method of Lip Cosmetics

To study the efficacy of lip moisturizing cosmetics and explore the methods for evaluating their efficacy.The claimed efficacy and number of claimed efficacy of 44 lip moisturizing cosmetics were investigated,and a combination of in vitro and human testing was used to evaluate the efficacy of the lip moisturizing cosmetics.The efficacy claims of lip cosmetics mainly included 4 categories of moisturizing,repairing,soothing and anti-wrinkle,with 79.55%of the products claiming 3~4 categories of efficacy.In the in vitro test,the cell morphology of the skin damage model improved and the secretion of pro-inflammatory factors decreased significantly.In the human trial,the water content,skin softness and brightness L value of the cuticle of the lips increased significantly in 31 subjects,and the transepidermal water loss,redness a value,and the area and volume of lip wrinkles decreased significantly;the dryness of the lip skin and the uniformity of the skin texture improved significantly.The dryness of lip skin and the uniformity of skin texture were significantly improved.The results show that the moisture content of the stratum corneum can be used to evaluate the moisturizing efficacy of lip products.The transepidermal water loss,skin color,skin softness and expert assessment can be used to evaluate the repairing efficacy.The observation of cell morphology of skin damage models and the detection of pro-inflammatory factor content can be used to evaluate the soothing efficacy.The area and volume of lip wrinkles can be used to evaluate the anti-wrinkle efficacy of products.

Study of the Application of PPG-5-CETETH-20 in Personal Care Rinse-off Product

PPG-5-Ceteth-20 is a multifunction raw material.PPG-5-Ceteth-20 has a wide range of application in skin care and hair care products.The purpose of this study was to evaluate the performance of PPG-5-Ceteth-20.The results shown that PPG-5-Ceteth-20 can improve hair combing,softness and smoothing in the hair care product.In additional,it can improve foam stability and compactness,and it doesn’t affect the transparency of the hair care product.

Research Progress on Application of Borneol As Permeation Enhancer in Functional Cosmetics

Borneol, as a traditional natural permeation enhancer, has been widely used to promote the transdermal absorption of active ingredients. In this review, the mechanism of borneol in promoting permeation by destroying the highly ordered lipid structure of the lipid layer and by destroying the hydrogen-bond network was described. The application of borneol in promoting the transdermal absorption of the active ingredients of traditional Chinese medicine and chemical drugs was introduced. The application of borneol as a natural ingredient added to functional cosmetics was summarized, and its effects on skin-spot treatment, acne skin care, eczema skin care, skin repair and anti-oxidation were introduced. Finally, the possible problems in the application of borneol in cosmetics were put forward, and the application prospect of borneol in the development of cosmetics was given.

News Digest

Determination of Metal Elements Content in Surfactants and Detergents and Two National Standard Amendments were Issued and Implemented,The National Standard Recently,State Administration for Market Regulation(SAMR)(Standardization Administration of China,SAC)issued Announcement on the Approval and Release of 423 Recommended National Standards,Including“Rolling Bearings-Angular Contact Ball Bearings-Overall Dimensions,”and Two National Standard Amendments(No.20,2023).

Ten Changes in the Cosmetics Industry in 2023

New life was accompanied by death,consumption upgrading was accompanied by consumption downgrading,triumphant advancement was accompanied by steady retreating.In 2023,magic realist dramas were played in China’s cosmetics industry one after another.That year,the domestic brands set off a prologue of counterattacking foreign brands with“Proya winning the first place in Tmall’s Double Eleven promotion for 2023”as a landmark event.That year,South Korean cosmetics,Japanese cosmetics and major European and American brands“became depressed”collectively,and the acutely turbulent list could hardly conceal the injury of“being defeated”and“being unsalable”.

New Pattern:the No.1 A-share Domestic Beauty Brand Changed Hands

On October 30,2023,A-share domestic beauty brands have all submitted their latest report card.Seen from this list of report cards,it is clear that the competition pattern of domestic beauty companies has changed:in the first 3 quarters of 2023,Proya successfully topped the A-share domestic beauty brands list with a revenue of 5.249 billion yuan,surpassing Shanghai Jahwa.At the start of the“Double 11”battle,Proya also led the way as the No.1 in Tmall beauty category in the pre-sale stage.It can be predicted that Proya will no doubt become the first in A-share domestic beauty brands in terms of revenue in 2023.

Letter from the Editor-in-Chief Seizing the new opportunities in 2024

Dear readers:No time will be wasted as long as we are making progress.As the New Year bell rings,the beauty industry has officially entered 2024.Looking back on the past year,there are too many stories to recall and remember.In 2023,L‘Oreal bought upmarket beauty brand Aesop;Estee Lauder Group invested in domestic brand code mint;Kering acquired Creed,a high-end fragrance brand.Acquisition and brand expansion have become the representative words of top enterprises.The year of 2023 witnessed the rise of Chinese brands.More and more consumers pay attention to and choose domestic cosmetics,and the quality,innovation and design of domestic products are becoming more mature.And the operating income and net profit of Pelaya,Botanee,and JALA Group rose in an all-round way,and domestic cosmetics achieved initial recovery after the pandemic.

Intensifying International Beauty Brands' Game against China

The way in which international beauty giants are laying out the Chinese market seems to be quietly changing.I have recently observed that the pace of foreign beauty giants launching self-developed patented ingredients and technologies is accelerating.In particular,a number of relevant achievements have been focused on the November 2023 China International Import Expo.Among them,new patented ingredients/technologies launched in the past year accounted for six cases.They include Shiseido’s Neomyone,Unilever’s Glutathione meta-technology,Amore Pacific's Fonoin,Estee Lauder's Sertiin Age Reversal Technology,Kose’s IPS cell research technology,and Procter&Gamble’s OLAY’s“Collagen Visualization”technology,etc..

Review on the Development of Cosmetic Industry from the Perspective of Group Standards

From the perspective of group standards, the dynamics of the cosmetic industry in the past few years were briefly reviewed and analyzed, including the number of group standards published, types of group standards, groups, and geographical distribution of the groups. The large number of participating groups and the wide range of geographical distribution indicated that group standards could play a positive role in the sustained and positive development of cosmetic industry. The future development of cosmetic industry was also prospected。

Study on Efficacy and Safety of Lophatherum Gracile Extract

Lophatherum gracile extract(LG)was taken as the research object,and evaluated respectively from two dimensions of efficacy and safety,so as to enhance its application prospect in the field of cosmetics.Eye irritation and skin irritation were evaluated by chick embryo chorioallantoic membrane experiment(HET-CAM)and human patch test.The transient potential receptor vanillate subtype 1(TRPV1)was highly expressed in the cell model,and the influence of the expression of interleukin 8(IL-8)and monocyte chemotactic factor(MCP-1)were measured.Sensitivity skin stimulation models were established using sodium dodecyl sulfate,lactic acid and capsaicin and to determine its ability to relieve skin sensitivity.HET-CAM and human patch test show that LG has good eye safety and skin safety.In the cell model with over-expression of TRPV1,LG can reduce the over-expression of IL-8 and MCP-1 in a dose-dependent manner.In human evaluation,LG can significantly reduce the transepidermal water loss rate(TEWL)and skin erythema index(EI)increase caused by SDS(p<0.05),instantly alleviate skin irritation caused by lactic acid stimulation,significantly reduce skin discomfort and redness caused by capsaicin stimulation,indicating that LG can accelerate the repair of damaged skin and enhance the barrier function of sensitive skin(p<0.05).The results of Therefore,as an active raw material of plant origin,LG has the characteristics of high efficiency,strong effect and safety,which can be widely used in the development of skin care product.

Study on Skin Care Efficacy of the Active Ingredients in Camellia Japonica Flowers at High and Low Altitudes

The active ingredients of Camellia japonica flowers(CJF)at high and low altitudes,as well as their skin care efficacy were compared.The dried red CJF at high and low altitudes were ultrasonically extracted with 70%ethanol,and these extracts were concentrated and then diluted to a constant volume.The content of total flavonoids,total polyphenols and total proteins was tested and analyzed.In addition,DPPH free radical scavenging,inhibition of the formation of advanced glycation end products,and inhibitory activity against elastase was measured to compare their skin care efficacy in anti-oxidation,anti-glycation,anti-wrinkling and firming.The results showed that,based on the dry weight of CJF,the content of total flavonoids and total proteins of the CJF at high altitude was approximately 1.5 times of the CJF at low altitude,while the content of total polyphenols was approximately 2.4 times that of the CJF at low altitude.The skin care efficacy of CJF at high altitude was significantly better than that of the CJF at low altitude.This work could provide theoretical basis for the selection and application of Camellia japonica flowers in the field of cosmetics.

Antioxidant Activity and Soothing Efficacy of Tambourissa Trichophylla Leaf Extract in Vitro Study

Present study is aimed to investigate in vitro biological efficacy of Tambourissa trichophylla leaf extract(TTLE),a plant-derived ingredient in cosmetic,on antioxidant activity and soothing efficacy.The total phenols content of TTLE was determined by the Folin-Ciocalteu method,antioxidant activity was tested by DPPH free radical scavenging assay,hyaluronidase inhibition activity was performed by using in vitro enzyme inhibitory assays based on spectrophotometric evaluation,and the soothing efficacy of TTLE was performed by the expression of nitric oxide(NO)and interleukin-6(IL-6)produced by LPS-induced RAW264.7 cells.The results shown that the total phenolic content of TTLE was as high as 54%,the DPPH scavenging activity was 81.18%at the concentration of 25μg/mL,the hyaluronidase inhibition activity was 69.04%at the concentration of 5 mg/mL,and the inhibition of NO and IL-6 were 15.70%and 76.57%at 0.05 mg/mL,respectively.TTLE has a high content of total phenols,high antioxidant activity and soothing effects,which indicated that TTLE was a promising ingredient in the development and application of cosmetics.

Research Progress on the Application of β-Nicotinamide Mononucleotides in Cosmetics

Recent studies have found that nicotinamide mononucleotide(nicotinamide mononucleotide,NMN)also has certain anti-aging,photoprotection,anti-oxidation,and soothing to the skin,while affects the level of nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide(nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide,NAD+)to improve aging-related diseases.These skincare features have laid the foundation for its application in cosmetics.NMN has been used in cosmetics and sold on the market in foreign countries,but there have been debates about its safety.It is currently as a new raw material for cosmetics in China,and its safety is also under monitoring.This paper systematically reviewed the basic properties,skin care functions and the safety of its application in cosmetics,aiming to provide theoretical reference for the development and application of NMN.

Establishment and Application of A Human Primary Keratinocyte Inflammation Model for Cosmetic Raw Material Screening

Using inducers to induce cells to produce inflammatory response is a common in vitro experimental method to study inflammation.However,there are relatively few inflammatory models developed for the cosmetic industry,and there are also great differences in the control of model induction,the selection of inflammatory indicators,and the concentration of inducers.Therefore,in this paper,by systematically studying the effects of Lipopolysaccharide(LPS)on the cell viability,the levels of IL-1α,IL-8 and ROS of human primary keratinocytes,a skin inflammation model based human primary keratinocyte was developed.The results showed that 0.01~100μg/mL LPS had no significant effect on the cell viability of human primary keratinocytes,while 100μg/mL LPS could simultaneously induce human primary keratinocytes to produce large amounts of IL-1αand IL-8,and 0.01μg/mL LPS could induce plentiful ROS.Therefore,a skin inflammation model for differential induction of different inflammatory indicators was established,and the sample OSM2021041301 was tested with this model,it was found that sample OSM2021041301 could significantly inhibit LPS-induced elevated IL-1αand IL-8 levels,the inhibitory effect on LPS-induced elevated ROS level was weak.The results indicated that OSM2021041301 has certain anti-inflammatory effect on inflammation caused by the increase of IL-1α,IL-8 and ROS induced by LPS and its analogues.

Integrated Use of Alternative Methods for Evaluating the Skin Sensitization Potencies of Five Frequently Used Preservatives in Cosmetics

In vitro skin sensitization testing methods based on the adverse outcome pathway(AOP)were used to evaluate the skin sensitization potencies of 5 commonly used preservatives.According to the“2 out of 3”principle of the integrated approaches to testing and assessment(IATA)the direct peptide reactivity assay(DPRA)and the human cell line activation test(h-CLAT)were used to detect the preservatives commonly used in cosmetics,including phenoxyethanol.methyl paraben,propyl paraben,imidazolidinyl urea and DMDM hydantoin.The DPRA and the h-CLA were carried out according to the OEC442C and 442E guidelines,respectively.The results show that.phenoxyethanol and methyl paraben are both negative in DPRA and h-CLAT while imidazolidinyl urea and DMDM hydantoin are both positive in these two tests.Propyl paraben has negative result in DPRA but positive result in h-CLAT.Therefore,imidazolidiny urea and DMDM hydantoin are sensitizers,while phenoxyethanol and methylparaben are non-sensitizers.Taken animal and human data into consideration,it is predicted that propyl paraben should be a non-sensitizer.The combination of DPRA and h-CLAT can make up for the limitations of using a single method,and it is suitable for the preliminary screening of cosmetic raw materials according to skin sensitization.

Studies on Stability and Moisture Retention of Urea and Its Derivatives

The effect of triethyl citrate(TEC)on the stability of cream preparations containing urea or hydroxyethyl urea along with their moisturizing effect on skin was investigated.The results showed that creams incorporating urea or hydroxyethyl urea led to increase in pH value after a long-term and high-temperature storage.pH change in the latter one was relatively smaller.With the addition of TEC,the elevated pH of the formula system was suppressed.In the situation of stable formula,the higher the TEC added,the more significant inhibition effect on the pH change was observed.In the moisture retention test in vivo,compared to 27.19%moisture rate in negative control,cream preparations containing 5%urea or 5%hydroxyethyl urea had remarkable moisturizing effect,which were all higher than 52%.The latter one was relatively more prominent.There is no significant effect on moisturizing effect for product with TEC additive.

Effective Dose Screening of Low Level Red Light in Different Cell Indexes

The low level red light irradiation dose that produced positive response on different cell indexes was selected through experiments.In fibroblast detection model,the low level red light irradiation dose that had positive response to the four indicators of mitochondrial membrane potential,ATP release,cell migration and collagen synthesis was screened.The experimental results showed that low level red light with a irradiation dose of 2 J/cm^(2) had a positive response to the above four indexes in fibroblast.The test model on fibroblast was later transferred to dermal papilla cells for further experimental verification.The results showed that low level red light with a irradiation dose of 2 J/cm^(2) also had a positive response to the four indicators of dermal papilla cells,namely,mitochondrial membrane potential,ATP release,cell proliferation rate and collagen synthesis.It is proved that the low level red light with a irradiation dose of 2 J/cm^(2) could improve the mitochondrial function,cell migration and collagen synthesis of fibroblast and dermal papilla cell,thus providing energy for cell activities,improving cell repair ability and cell anti-aging ability.