The grouping characteristics of sea waves in the Shijiu Port

A review concerning the methods of studying and describing wave groups is presented in this paper. After analysing 78 field records collected in the Shijiu Port, China, the measured parameters of wave groups and some factors describing wave groupness and their variations are given. Moreover, these results are compared with those of theory.

Bandwidth Scale for Frequency Spectrum of Sea Waves

It is well known that energy spectrum bandwidth should be able to reflect the degree of energy concentration. However, the commonly used bandwidth factors defined by Longuet-Higgins could not fit the concept satisfactorily. A new kind of spectrum bandwidth scale factor with a clear physical meaning is given in the present paper and a constant is obtained which reveals the intrinsic characteristics of sea waves. Thereby a universal relationship between significant wave height of sea waves and spectrum bandwidth is established.

Combined refraction and diffraction models for sea waves over complicated topography and with currents in shallow water

-Combined refraction and diffraction models in the form of linear parabolic approximation are derived through smallparameter method. More strictly theoretical basis and more accuracy in the models than Lozano's (1980) are obtained. Some theoretical defects in Liu's model (1985) with consideration of current are not only found but also eliminated. More strict and accurate models are, therefore, presented in this paper.The calculation results and analysis in applying the models to actual wave field with consideration of bottom friction will be given in the following paper.

The damping model for sea waves covered by oil films of a finite thickness

In combination with a wave action balance equation, a damping model for sea waves covered by oil films of a finite thickness is proposed. The damping model is not only related to the physical parameters of the oil film, but also related to environment parameters. Meanwhile, the parametric analyses have been also conducted to understand the sensitivity of the damping model to these parameters. And numerical simulations demonstrate that a kinematic viscosity, a surface/interfacial elasticity, a thickness, and a fractional filling factor cause more significant effects on a damping ratio than the other physical parameters of the oil film. From the simulation it is also found that the influences induced by a wind speed and a wind direction are also remarkable. On the other hand, for a thick emulsified oil film, the damping effect on the radar signal induced by the reduction of an effective dielectric constant should also be taken into account. The simulated results are compared with the damping ratio evaluated by the 15 ENVISAT ASAR images acquired during the Gulf of Mexico oil spill accident.

Energy Harvesting From Sea Waves With Consideration of Airy and JONSWAP Theory and Optimization of Energy Harvester Parameters

为在海驱动低力量的电子设备的新方法之一是收获系统的一个波浪精力。在这个方法，压电的材料被采用把海波浪的机械精力变换成电能。这个方法的优点基于避免控告系统的一节电池。研究在然而，就与随机的 JONSWAP 波浪理论收获的精力而言从海波浪收获的精力上被做了，然后决定收获的精力的最佳价值是新的。这份报纸由实现 JONSWAP 波浪模型做那，计算生产力量，并且写实地证明产量力量与更简单的空气的波浪模型比较被减少。另外，精力 harvester 系统的参数用一个模仿的退火的算法被优化，产出增加的生产力量。

Wind-wave hindcast in the Yellow Sea and the Bohai Sea from the year 1988 to 2002

We performed long-term wind-wave hindcast in the Yellow Sea and the Bohai Sea from the year 1988 to 2002, and then analyzed the regional wave climate. Comparisons between model results and satellite data are generally consistent on monthly mean significant wave height. Then we discuss the temporal and spatial characteristics of the climatological monthly mean significant wave heights and mean wave periods. The climatologically spatial patterns are observed as increasing from northwest to southeast and from offshore to deep-water area for both significant wave height and mean wave period, and the patterns are highly related to the wind forcing and local topography. Seasonal variations of wave parameters are also significant. Furthermore, we compute the extreme values of wind and significant wave height using statistical methods. Results reveal the spatial patterns of N-year return significant wave height in the Yellow Sea and the Bohai Sea, and we discuss the relationship between extreme values of significant wave height and wind forcing.

A COMPARATIVE STUDY OF SPECTRAL METHODS WITH SEA WAVE DATA

Two spectral methods are used to study sea wave data. Firstly, the estimated results calculated by the sequency spectrum method and frequency spectrum method are compared, and then the differences between the two methods are discussed. Furthermore, compared with frequency spectral analysis, sequency spectral analysis has many advantages: faster calculating speed, convenient use and high distinguishability.

Simulation of double cold cores of the 35°N section in the YellowSea with a wave-tide-circulation coupled model

Based on the MASNUM wave-tide-circulation coupled numerical model, the temperature structure along 35°N in the Yellow Sea was simulated and compared with the observations. One of the notable features of the temperature structure along 35°N section is the double cold cores phenomena during spring and summer. The double cold cores refer to the two cold water centers located near 122°E and 125°E from the depth of 30m to bottom. The formation, maintenance and disappearance of the double cold cores are discussed. At least two reasons make the temperature in the center (near 123°E) of the section higher than that near the west and east shores in winter. One reason is that the water there is deeper than the west and east sides so its heat content is higher. The other is invasion of the warm water brought by the Yellow Sea Warm Current (YSWC) during winter.This temperature pattern of the lower layer (from 30m to bottom) is maintained through spring and summer when the upper layer (0 to 30m) is heated and strong thermocline is formed. Large zonal span of the 35°N section (about 600 km) makes the cold cores have more opportunity to survive. The double cold cores phenomena disappears in early autumn when the west cold core vanishes first with the dropping of the thermocline position.

Statistical distribution of surface elevation for the fourth order nonlinear random sea waves

Based upon the nonlinear model of random sea waves, the statistical distribution of wave surface elevation exact to the fourth order is derived as the truncated Gram-Charlier series, by calculating directly each order moment. The phenomenon found by Huang et al. that the agreement between observed data and investigated series deteriorates much more when the series is kept to λ8 is explained. The effect of the approximation order on the truncation of series and the determination of coefficients is investigated. For the mth order approximation, the derived series is truncated at H3m-3 with the absence of H3m-4, and the coefficients of H3m-3 and H3m-6 are connected by a simple algebraic relation.

A Statistical Distribution of Surface Elevation for Nonlinear Random Sea Waves and Its Physical Explanation

Based upon the nonlinear model of random sea waves,a commonly applicable statisticaldistribution of wave surface elevation exact to the third order is derived through the direct calculations ofeach order moment.The distribution arrived reduces,in the sense of being exact to H6,to the Gram-Charlierseries due to Longuet-Higgins for deep water,provided that only the two simplest kinds of wave-wave inter-actions are taken into account The reason why the agreement of Gram-Charlier series with experimental databecomes worse and worse as the terms of series are increased is explicited for the first time.

A REGIONAL COUPLED AIR-SEA-WAVE MODEL: SIMULATION OF UPPER-OCEAN RESPONSES TO AN IDEALIZED TROPICAL CYCLONE

In this study a coupled air-sea-wave model system, containing the model components of GRAPES-TCM, ECOM-si and WAVEWATCH III, is established based on an air-sea coupled model. The changes of wave state and the effects of sea spray are both considered. Using the complex air-sea-wave model, a set of idealized simulations was applied to investigate the effects of air-sea-wave interaction in the upper ocean. Results show that air-wave coupling can strengthen tropical cyclones while air-sea coupling can weaken them; and air-sea-wave coupling is comparable to that of air-sea coupling, as the intensity is almost unchanged with the wave model coupled to the air-sea coupled model.The mixing by vertical advection is strengthened if the wave effect is considered, and causes much more obvious sea surface temperature(SST) decreases in the upper ocean in the air-sea coupled model. Air-wave coupling strengthens the air-sea heat exchange, while the thermodynamic coupling between the atmosphere and ocean weakens the air-sea heat exchange: the air-sea-wave coupling is the result of their balance. The wave field distribution characteristic is determined by the wind field. Experiments are also conducted to simulate ocean responses to different mixed layer depths.With increasing depth of the initial mixed layer, the decrease of SST weakens, but the temperature decrease of deeper layers is enhanced and the loss of heat in the upper ocean is increased. The significant wave height is larger when the initial mixed layer depth increases.

Effect of oceanic current on typhoon-wave modeling in the East China Sea

We use the WAVEWATCH-III model to quantify the effect of oceanic current on typhoon-wave modeling in the East-China-Sea（ECS）.Typhoons Jelawat and Saomai in the autumn of 2000 are hindcasted.The oceanic currents in the ECS are mainly constituted of Kuroshio and typhoon-generated currents.The results show distinguishable differences in wave height and wave period under the typhoon conditions.The oceanic current causes the maximum differences,of up to a 0.5 m significant wave height and a 1 s mean wave period.Comparisons between typhoons Jelawat and Saomai show the dependence of the current effect on the typhoon characteristics.

Near-inertial waves in the wake of 2011 Typhoon Nesat in the northern South China Sea

In September 2011, Typhoon Nesat passed over a moored array of instruments recording current and temperature in the northern South China Sea（SCS）. A wake of baroclinic near-inertial waves（NIWs） commenced after Nesat passed the array. The associated near-inertial currents are surface-intensified and clockwise-polarized. The vertical range of NIWs reached 300 m, where the vertical range is defined as the maximum depth of the horizontal near-inertial velocity 5 cm/s. The current oscillations have a frequency of 0.709 9 cycles per day（cpd）, which is 0.025 f higher than the local inertial frequency. The NIWs have an e-folding time-scale of 10 d based on the evolution of the near-inertial kinetic energy. The depth-leading phase of near-inertial currents indicates downward group velocity and energy flux. The estimated vertical phase velocity and group velocity are 0.27 and 0.08 cm/s respectively, corresponding to a vertical wavelength of 329 m. A spectral analysis reveals that NIWs act as a crucial process to redistribute the energy injected by Typhoon Nesat. A normal mode and an empirical orthogonal function analysis indicate that the second mode has a dominant variance contribution of 81%, and the corresponding horizontal phase velocity and wavelength are 3.50 m/s and 420 km respectively. The remarkable large horizontal phase velocity is relevant to the rotation of the earth, and a quantitative analysis suggests that the phase velocity of the NIWs with a blue-shift of 0.025 f overwhelms that of internal gravity waves by a factor of 4.6.

Effects of surface waves and sea spray on air–sea fluxes during the passage of Typhoon Hagupit

Air–sea exchange plays a vital role in the development and maintenance of tropical cyclones（TCs）. Although studies have suggested the dependence of air–sea fluxes on surface waves and sea spray, how these processes modify those fluxes under TC conditions have not been sufficiently investigated based on in-situ observations.Using continuous meteorological and surface wave data from a moored buoy in the northern South China Sea,this study examines the effects of surface waves and sea spray on air–sea fluxes during the passage of Typhoon Hagupit. The mooring was within about 40 km of the center of Hagupit. Surface waves could increase momentum flux to the ocean by about 15%, and sea spray enhanced both sensible and latent heat fluxes to the atmosphere,causing Hagupit to absorb 500 W/m^2 more heat flux from the ocean. These results have powerful implications for understanding TC–ocean interaction and improving TC intensity forecasting.

Wave-current interaction during Typhoon Nuri(2008)and Hagupit(2008):an application of the coupled ocean-wave modeling system in the northern South China Sea

The northern South China Sea(SCS) is frequently affected by typhoons. During severe storm events, wave-current interactions produce storm surges causing enormous damage in the path of the typhoon. To evaluate the influence of wave-current interactions on storm surge, we used a coupled ocean-atmospherewave-sediment transport(COAWST) modeling system with radiation-stress and vortex-force formulations to simulate two typically intense tropical storms that invaded the SCS, namely Typhoons Nuri(2008) and Hagupit(2008), and compared results with observations from the Hong Kong Observatory. Both radiationstress and vortex-force formulations significantly improved the accuracy of the simulation. Depending on which typhoon and the topography encountered, the influence of surface waves on the oceanic circulation showed different characteristics, including the differences of range and intensity of storm surge between vortex-force and radiation-stress experiments. During typhoon landing, strong sea-surface elevation in concert with wave set-up/set-down caused the adjustment of the momentum balance. In the direction perpendicular to the current, but especially in the cross-shore direction, the pressure gradient and wave effects on the current dominated the momentum balance.

Modeling ocean wave propagation under sea ice covers

Operational ocean wave models need to work globally, yet current ocean wave models can only treat ice covered regions crudely. The purpose of this paper is to provide a brief overview of ice effects on wave propagation and different research methodology used in studying these effects. Based on its proximity to land or sea, sea ice can be classified as： landfast ice zone, shear zone, and the marginal ice zone. All ice covers attenuate wave energy. Only long swells can penetrate deep into an ice cover. Being closest to open water, wave propagation in the marginal ice zone is the most complex to model. The physical appearance of sea ice in the marginal ice zone varies. Grease ice, pancake ice, brash ice, floe aggregates, and continuous ice sheet may be found in this zone at different times and locations. These types of ice are formed under different thermalmechanical forcing. There are three classic models that describe wave propagation through an idealized ice cover： mass loading, thin elastic plate, and viscous layer models. From physi cal arguments we may conjecture that mass loading model is suitable for disjoint aggregates of ice floes much smaller than the wavelength, thin elastic plate model is suitable for a con tinuous ice sheet, and the viscous layer model is suitable for grease ice. For different sea ice types we may need different wave ice interaction models. A recently proposed viscoelas tic model is able to synthesize all three classic models into one. Under suitable limiting conditions it converges to the three previous models. The complete theoretical framework for evaluating wave propagation through various ice covers need to be implemented in the operational ocean wave models. In this review, we introduce the sea ice types, previous wave ice interaction models, wave attenuation mechanisms,the methods to calculate wave reflection and transmission between different ice covers, and the effect of ice floe breaking on shaping the sea ice morphology. Laboratory experiments, field measurements and numerical simulations supporting the fundamental research in waveice interaction models are discussed. We conclude with some outlook of future research needs in this field.

Numerical simulation of wave fi eld in the South China Sea using WAVEWATCH III

Wave fi elds of the South China Sea(SCS) from 1976 to 2005 were simulated using WAVEWATCH III by inputting high-resolution reanalysis wind fi eld datasets assimilated from several meteorological data sources. Comparisons of wave heights between WAVEWATCH III and TOPEX/Poseidon altimeter and buoy data show a good agreement. Our results show seasonal variation of wave direction as follows: 1. During the summer monsoon(April–September), waves from south occur from April through September in the southern SCS region, which prevail taking about 40% of the time; 2. During the winter monsoon(December–March), waves from northeast prevail throughout the SCS for 56% of the period; 3. The dominant wave direction in SCS is NE. The seasonal variation of wave height H s in SCS shows that in spring, H s ≥1 m in the central SCS region and is less than 1 m in other areas. In summer, H s is higher than in spring. During September–November, infl uenced by tropical cyclones, H s is mostly higher than 1 m. East of Hainan Island, H s >2 m. In winter, H s reaches its maximum value infl uenced by the north-east monsoon, and heights over 2 m are found over a large part of SCS. Finally, we calculated the extreme wave parameters in SCS and found that the extreme wind speed and wave height for the 100-year return period for SCS peaked at 45 m/s and 19 m, respectively, SE of Hainan Island and decreased from north to south.

Comparison between wave generation methods for numerical simulation of bimodal seas

This paper describes an investigation of the generation of desired sea states in a numerical wave model. Bimodal sea states containing energetic swell components can be coastal hazards along coastlines exposed to large oceanic fetches. Investigating the effects of long-period bimodal seas requires large computational domains and increased running time to ensure the development of the desired sea state. Long computational runs can cause mass stability issues due to the Stokes drift and wave reflection, which in turn affect results through the variation of the water level. A numerical wave flume, NEWRANS, was used to investigate two wave generation methods： the wave paddle method, allowing for a smaller domain; and the internal mass source function method, providing an open boundary allowing reflected waves to leave the domain. The two wave generation methods were validated against experimental data by comparing the wave generation accuracy and the variance of mass in the model during simulations. Results show that the wave paddle method not only accurately generates the desired sea state but also provides a more stable simulation, in which mass fluctuation has less of an effect on the water depth during the long-duration simulations. As a result, it is suggested that the wave paddle method with active wave absorption is preferable to the internal wave maker option when investigating intermediate-depth long-period bimodal seas for long-duration simulations.

Evaluation of numerical wave model for typhoon wave simulation in South China Sea

The simulating waves nearshore(SWAN) model has typically been designed for wave simulations in near-shore regions. In this study, the model's applicability to the simulation of typhoon waves in the South China Sea(SCS) was evaluated. A blended wind field, consisting of an interior domain based on Fujita's model and an exterior domain based on Takahashi's model, was used as the driving wind field. The waves driven by Typhoon Kai-tak over the SCS that occurred in 2012 were selected for the numerical simulation research. Sensitivity analyses of time step, grid resolution, and angle resolution were performed in order to obtain optimal model settings. Through sensitivity analyses, it can be found that the time step has a large influence on the results, while grid resolution and angle resolution have a little effect on the results.

Response of Internal Waves to 2005 Typhoon Damrey over the Northwestern Shelf of the South China Sea

Continuous observation of sea water temperature and current was made at Wenchang Station(19°35′N,112°E) in 2005. The data collected indicate vigorous internal waves of both short periods and tidal and near-inertial periods. The temperature and current time series during 18-30 September were examined to describe the upper ocean internal wave field response to Typhoon Damrey(0518) . The strong wind associated with the typhoon,which passed over the sea area about 45 km south of Wenchang Station on 25 September,deepened the mixed layer depth remarkably. It decreased the mixed layer temperature while increasing the deep layer temperature,and intensified the near-inertial and high-frequency fluctuations of temperature and current. Power spectra of temperature and current time series indicate significant deviations from those obtained by using the deep ocean internal wave models characterized by a power law. The frequency spectra were dominated by three energetic bands:around the inertial frequency(7.75× 10-6 Hz) ,tidal frequencies(1.0×10-5 to 2.4×10-5 Hz) ,and between 1.4×10-4 and 8.3×10-4 Hz. Dividing the field data into three phases(before,during and after the typhoon) ,we found that the typhoon enhanced the kinetic energy in nearly all the frequency bands,especially in the surface water. The passage of Damrey made a major contribution to the horizontal kinetic energy of the total surface current variances. The vertical energy density distribution,with its peak value at the surface,was an indication that the energy injected by the strong wind into the surface current could penetrate downward to the thermocline.