Maximum initial primary wave model for low-Froude-number reservoir landslides based on wave theory

The impulse waves induced by large-reservoir landslides can be characterized by a low Froude number.However,systematic research on predictive models specifically targeting the initial primary wave is lacking.Taking the Shuipingzi 1#landslide that occurred in the Baihetan Reservoir area of the Jinsha River in China as an engineering example,this study established a large-scale physical model(with dimensions of 30 m×29 m×3.5 m at a scale of 1:150)and conducted scaled experiments on 3D landslide-induced impulse waves.During the process in which a sliding mass displaced and compressed a body of water to generate waves,the maximum initial wave amplitude was found to be positively correlated with the sliding velocity and the volume of the landslide.With the increase in the water depth,the wave amplitude initially increased and then decreased.The duration of pressure exertion by the sliding mass at its maximum velocity directly correlated with an elevated wave amplitude.Based on the theories of low-amplitude waves and energy conservation,while considering the energy conversion efficiency,a predictive model for the initial wave amplitude was derived.This model could fit and validate the functions of wavelength and wave velocity.The accuracy of the initial wave amplitude was verified using physical experiment data,with a prediction accuracy for the maximum initial wave amplitude reaching 90%.The conversion efficiency(η)directly determined the accuracy of the estimation formula.Under clear conditions for landslide-induced impulse wave generation,estimating the value ofηthrough analogy cases was feasible.This study has derived the landslide-induced impulse waves amplitude prediction formula from the standpoints of wave theory and energy conservation,with greater consideration given to the intrinsic characteristics in the formation process of landslide-induced impulse waves,thereby enhancing the applicability and extensibility of the formula.This can facilitate the development of empirical estimation methods for landslide-induced impulse waves toward universality.

LAGFD-WAM numerical wave model-Ⅰ. Basic physical model

The LAGFD-WAM wave model is a third generation wave model. In the present paper the physical aspect of the model was shown in great detail including energy spectrum balance equation, complicated characteristics equations and source functions.

LAGFD-WAM numerical wave model- Ⅱ. Characteristics inlaid scheme and its application

In this paper the parameterizational approach of nonlinear source function and the implicit scheme of the model are discussed in detail. The matching problem is solved between time and space steps using the characteristics inlaid scheme with very strong physical meaning. The computational comparison in typical winds shows some improvements to the WAM model. That the hindcast results of the model for typhoon cases are in good agreement with real data illustrates its applicability to wave forecast and engineering study.

A hybrid model for numerical wave forecasting and its implementation-Ⅰ.The wind wave model

The authors make an endeavor to explain why a new hybrid wave model is here proposed when several such models have already been in operation and the so- called third generation wave modej is proving attractive. This part of the paper is devoted to the wind wave model. Both deep and shallow water models have been developed, the former being actually a special case of the latter when water depth is great. The deep water model is exceptionally simple in form. Significant wave height is the only prognostic variable. In comparison with the usual methods to compute the energy input and dissipations empirically or by 'tuning', the proposed model has the merit that the effects of all source terms are combined into one term which is computed through empirical growth relations for significant waves, these relations being, relatively speaking, easier and more reliable to obtain than those for the source terms in the spectral energy balance equation. The discrete part of the model and the implementation of the model as a whole will be discussed in the second part of the present paper.

Analysis of dynamic wave model for flood routing in natural rivers

Flooding is a common natural disaster that causes enormous economic, social, and human losses. Of various flood routing methods, the dynamic wave model is one of the best approaches for the prediction of the characteristics of floods during their propagations in natural rivers because all of the terms of the momentum equation are considered in the model. However, no significant research has been conducted on how the model sensitivity affects the accuracy of the downstream hydrograph. In this study, a comprehensive analysis of the input parameters 9f the dynamic wave model was performed through field applications in natural rivers and routing experiments in artificial channels using the graphical multi-parametric sensitivity analysis （GMPSA）. The results indicate that the effects of input parameter errors on the output results are more significant in special situations, such as lower values of Manning＇s roughness coefficient and/or a steeper bed slope on the characteristics of a design hydrograph, larger values of the skewness factor and/or time to peak on the channel characteristics, larger values of Manning＇s roughness coefficient and/or the bed slope on the space step, and lower values of Manning＇s roughness coefficient and/or a steeper bed slope on the time step and weighting factor.

Seismic wave modeling in viscoelastic VTI media using spectral element method

Spectral element method（SEM） for elastic media is well known for its great flexibility and high accuracy in solving problems with complex geometries.It is an advanced choice for wave simulations.Due to anelasticity of earth media,SEM for elastic media is no longer appropriate.On fundamental of the second-order elastic SEM,this work takes the viscoelastic wave equations and the vertical transversely isotropic（VTI） media into consideration,and establishes the second-order SEM for wave modeling in viscoelastic VTI media.The second-order perfectly matched layer for viscoelastic VTI media is also introduced.The problem of handling the overlapped absorbed corners is solved.A comparison with the analytical solution in a twodimensional viscoelastic homogeneous medium shows that the method is accurate in the wave-field modeling.Furtherly,numerical validation also presents its great flexibility in solving wave propagation problems in complex heterogeneous media.This second-order SEM with perfectly matched layer for viscoelastic VTI media can be easily applied in wave modeling in a limited region.

A second order random wave model for predicting the power performances of a wave energy converter

The power performances of a point absorber wave energy converter(WEC)operating in a nonlinear multidirectional random sea are rigorously investigated.The absorbed power of the WEC Power-Take-Off system has been predicted by incorporating a second order random wave model into a nonlinear dynamic filter.This is a new approach,and,as the second order random wave model can be utilized to accurately simulate the nonlinear waves in an irregular sea,avoids the inaccuracies resulting from using a first order linear wave model in the simulation process.The predicted results have been systematically analyzed and compared,and the advantages of using this new approach have been convincingly substantiated.

Simplified Wave Models Applicability to Shallow Mud Flows Modeled as Power-Law Fluids

Simplified wave models- such as kinematic,diffusion and quasi-steady- are widely employed as a convenient replacement of the full dynamic one in the analysis of unsteady open-channel flows,and especially for flood routing.While their use may guarantee a significant reduction of the computational effort,it is mandatory to define the conditions in which they may be confidently applied.The present paper investigates the applicability conditions of the kinematic,diffusion and quasisteady dynamic shallow wave models for mud flows of power-law fluids.The power-law model describes in an adequate and convenient way fluids that at low shear rates fluids do not posses yield stress,such as clay or kaolin suspensions,which are frequently encountered in Chinese rivers.In the framework of a linear analysis,the propagation characteristics of a periodic perturbation of an initial steady uniform flow predicted by the simplified models are compared with those of the full dynamic one.Based on this comparison,applicability criteria for the different wave approximations for mud flood of power-law fluids are derived.The presented results provide guidelines for selecting the appropriate approximation for a given flow problem,and therefore they may represent a useful tool for engineering predictions.

Numerical simulation of typhoon- induced storm surge on the coast of Jiangsu Province,China,based on coupled hydrodynamic and wave models

In order to facilitate engineering design and coastal flooding protection, the potential storm surge induced by a typhoon is studied.Using an unstructured mesh, a coupled model which combines the advanced circulation （ ADCIRC ） hydrodynamic model and simulating waves nearshore （ SWAN ） model is applied to analyze the storm surge and waves on the coast of Jiangsu Province.The verifications of wind velocity, tidal levels and wave height show that this coupling model performs well to reflect the characteristics of the water levels and waves in the studied region.Results show that the effect of radiation stress on storm surge is significant, especially in shallow areas such as the coast of Jiangsu Province and the Yangtze estuary.By running the coupled model, the simulated potential flooding results can be employed in coastal engineering applications in the Jiangsu coastal area, such as storm surge warnings and extreme water level predictions.

Grain Size Analysis and Wave Modeling on the Coastal Fringe of Larache （Ras R＇mel Beach）, North West of Morocco

The studied area is located in the northwestern Morocco. It occupies a 2.5 km long of coastline on the Atlantic shore. It is oriented NNE-SSW, clearly exposed to the dominant swells coming from west to northwest. The aim of this study is to determine the capacity of the waves that hit the shore to transport the sediments. To achieve our goal we chose a methodology that combines field sampling and laboratory analysis with digital modeling. In the first phase we sampled sediments from the study area along and across the beach line, dry sieving was used to determine the grain size distribution and the statistics derived from the sand samples were used to determine the critical shield stress （z＇cr, b） also to investigate the spatial variability and influence of transport on grain size characteristics. As for the second phase, we intended to create a wave climate modeling based on nautical chart, using ArcGIS then Matlab that allowed us to obtain the Swan model for the area. The correlation between those results showed the degree of contribution of wave in the distribution of sediments along the shore.

Lie symmetries and exact solutions for a short-wave model

In this paper, the Lie symmetry analysis and generalized symmetry method are performed for a short-wave model. The symmetries for this equation are given, and the phase portraits of the traveling wave systems are analyzed using the bifurcation theory of dynamical systems. The exact parametric representations of four types of traveling wave solutions are obtained.

Evaluation of numerical wave model for typhoon wave simulation in South China Sea

The simulating waves nearshore(SWAN) model has typically been designed for wave simulations in near-shore regions. In this study, the model's applicability to the simulation of typhoon waves in the South China Sea(SCS) was evaluated. A blended wind field, consisting of an interior domain based on Fujita's model and an exterior domain based on Takahashi's model, was used as the driving wind field. The waves driven by Typhoon Kai-tak over the SCS that occurred in 2012 were selected for the numerical simulation research. Sensitivity analyses of time step, grid resolution, and angle resolution were performed in order to obtain optimal model settings. Through sensitivity analyses, it can be found that the time step has a large influence on the results, while grid resolution and angle resolution have a little effect on the results.

A REGIONAL COUPLED AIR-SEA-WAVE MODEL: SIMULATION OF UPPER-OCEAN RESPONSES TO AN IDEALIZED TROPICAL CYCLONE

In this study a coupled air-sea-wave model system, containing the model components of GRAPES-TCM, ECOM-si and WAVEWATCH III, is established based on an air-sea coupled model. The changes of wave state and the effects of sea spray are both considered. Using the complex air-sea-wave model, a set of idealized simulations was applied to investigate the effects of air-sea-wave interaction in the upper ocean. Results show that air-wave coupling can strengthen tropical cyclones while air-sea coupling can weaken them; and air-sea-wave coupling is comparable to that of air-sea coupling, as the intensity is almost unchanged with the wave model coupled to the air-sea coupled model.The mixing by vertical advection is strengthened if the wave effect is considered, and causes much more obvious sea surface temperature(SST) decreases in the upper ocean in the air-sea coupled model. Air-wave coupling strengthens the air-sea heat exchange, while the thermodynamic coupling between the atmosphere and ocean weakens the air-sea heat exchange: the air-sea-wave coupling is the result of their balance. The wave field distribution characteristic is determined by the wind field. Experiments are also conducted to simulate ocean responses to different mixed layer depths.With increasing depth of the initial mixed layer, the decrease of SST weakens, but the temperature decrease of deeper layers is enhanced and the loss of heat in the upper ocean is increased. The significant wave height is larger when the initial mixed layer depth increases.

Simulation of Typhoon-Driven Waves in the Yangtze Estuary with Multiple-Nested Wave Models

Typhoon-generated waves are simulated with two numerical wave models, the SWAN model for the coastal and Yangtze Estuary domain, nested within the WAVEWATCHIII （WW3） for the basin-scale East China Sea domain. Typhoon No. 8114 is chosen because it was very strong, and generated high waves in the Estuary. WW3 was implemented for the East China Sea coarse-resolution computational domain, to simulate the waves over a large spatial scale and provide boundary conditions for SWAN model simulations, implemented on a fine-resolution nested domain for the Yangtze Estuary area. The Takahashi wind model is applied to the simulation of the East China Sea scale （3-hourly） and Yangtze Estuary scale （1-hourly） winds. Simulations of significant wave heights in the East China Sea show that the highest waves are on the right side of the storm track, and maxima tend to occur at the eastern deep-water open boundary of the Yangtze Estuary. In the Yangtze Estuary, incoming swell is dominant over locally generated waves before the typhoon approaches the Estuary. As the typhoon approaches the Estuary, wind waves and swell coexist, and the wave direction is mainly influenced by the swell direction and the complex topography.

Verification of A Numerical Harbour Wave Model

A numerical model for wave propagation in a harbour is verified by use of physical models. The extended time-dependent mild slope equation is employed as the governing equation, and the model is solved by use of ADI method containing the relaxation factor. Firstly, the reflection coefficient of waves in front of rubble-mound breakwaters under oblique incident waves is determined through physical model tests, and it is regarded as the basis for simulating partial reflection boundaries of the numerical model. Then model tests on refraction, diffraction and reflection of waves in a harbour are performed to measure wave height distribution. Comparative results between physical and numerical model tests show that the present numerical model can satisfactorily simulate the propagation of regular and irregular waves in a harbour with complex topography and boundary conditions.

Ocean Wave Model and Wave Drift Caused by the Asymmetry of Crest and Trough

It follows from the review on classical wave models that the asymmetry of crest and trough is the direct cause for wave drift. Based on this, a new model of Lagrangian form is constructed. Relative to the Gerstner model, its improvement is reflected in the horizontal motion which includes an explicit drift term. On the one hand, the depth-decay factor for the new drift accords well with that of the particle’s horizontal velocity. It is more rational than that of Stokes drift. On the other hand, the new formula needs no Taylor expansion as for Stokes drift and is applicable for the waves with big slopes. In addition, the new formula can also yield a more rational magnitude for the surface drift than that of Stokes.

Comparisons of Wave Force Model Effects on the Structural Responses and Fatigue Loads of a Semi-Submersible Floating Wind Turbine

The selection of wave force models will significantly impact the structural responses of floating wind turbines.In this study,comparisons of wave force model effects on the structural responses and fatigue loads of a semi-submersible floating wind turbine(SFWT)were conducted.Simulations were performed by employing the Morison equation(ME)with linear or second-order wave kinematics and potential flow theory(PFT)with first-or second-order wave forces.A comparison of regular waves,irregular waves,and coupled wind/waves analyses with the experimental data showed that many of the simulation results and experimental data are relatively consistent.However,notable discrepancies are found in the response amplitude operators for platform heave,tower base bending moment,and tension in mooring lines.PFT models give more satisfactory results of heave but more significant discrepan-cies in tower base bending moment than the ME models.In irregular wave analyses,low-frequency resonances were captured by PFT models with second-order difference-frequency terms,and high-frequency resonances were captured by the ME models or PFT models with second-order sum-frequency terms.These force models capture the response frequencies but do not reasonably predict the response amplitudes.The coupled wind/waves analyses showed more satisfactory results than the wave-only analyses.However,an important detail to note is that this satisfactory result is based on the overprediction of wind-induced responses.

Atlantic blocking events in a simplified nonlinear baroclinic model for local finite-amplitude wave activity

为研究北大西洋阻高的形成机制,本文在局部有限振幅波活动(LWA)框架下进行了一系列数值实验.采用的数值模型能显式地描绘出两种重要的大气内部动力过程,即非线性纬向位涡通量和Rossby波包传播.模拟结果显示,这两种动力学过程均是形成大西洋阻高的重要机理.具体地,非线性纬向位涡通量和Rossby波包传播,分别是大西洋阻高南部和北部LWA形成的主导因子.因此,本研究综合了前人关于大西洋阻高的研究成果,为其形成机理提供了新的认识.

Modeling and Implementation of a Data Security and Protection Medium Using the Generated Key Based on Electromagnetic Wave Propagation Theories

Today, the advent of quantum computers and algorithms is calling into question the semantic security of symmetrical and asymmetrical cryptosystems. The security of objects connected to the network, which must provide a security service and protect the privacy of users by providing protection against attacks such as identity theft, denial of service, eavesdropping and unauthorised access to personal and sensitive data. It is therefore necessary to find a robust method of using the key that is effective in protecting and preventing data tampering. In this paper, we design and implement a security and data protection method using a key generated on the basis of electromagnetic wave propagation theories. Modelling and implementation of a data security and protection method using a key generated on the basis of electromagnetic wave propagation theories.

Investigation of Maxima Assumptions in Modelling Tropical Cyclone- Induced Hazards in the South China Sea

The present study aims to examine the suitability of two commonly used assumptions that simplify modelling metoceanconditions for designing offshore wind turbines in the South China Sea (SCS). The first assumption assumes thatjoint N-year extreme wind and wave events can be independently estimated and subsequently combined. The secondone assumes peak wind and waves can be modelled as occurring simultaneously during a tropical cyclone (TC) event.To better understand the potential TC activity, a set of 10000 years synthetic TC events are generated. The wind fieldmodel and the Mike 21 spectral wave model are employed to model the TC-induced hazards. Subsequently, theeffect of the assumptions is evaluated by analyzing the peak structural response of both monopile and semisubmersibleoffshore wind turbines during TC events. The results demonstrate that the examined assumptions are generally accurate.By assessing the implications of these assumptions, valuable insights are obtained, which can inform andimprove the modelling of TC-induced hazards in the SCS region.