Nonlinear Dispersion Effect on Wave Transformation

A new nonlinear dispersion relation is given in this paper, which can overcome the limitation of the intermediate minimum value in the dispersion relation proposed by Kirby and Dalrymple (1986). and which has a better approximation to Hedges' empirical relation than the modified relations by Hedges (1987). Kirby and Dalrymple (1987) for shallow waters. The new dispersion relation is simple in form, thus it can be used easily in practice. Meanwhile, a general explicit approximation to the new dispersion and other and other nonlinear dispersion relations is given. By use of the explicit approximation to the new dispersion relation along with the mild slope equation taking into account weakly nonlinenr effect, a mathematical model is obtained, and it is applied to laboratory data. The results show that the model developed with the new dispersion relation predicts wave transformation over complicated topography quite well.

Nonlinear Dispersion Relation in Wave Transformation

A nonlinear dispersion relation is presented to model the nonlinear dispersion of waves over the whole range of possible water depths. It reduces the phase speed over prediction of both Hedges′ modified relation and Kirby and Dalrymple′s modified relation in the region of 1< kh <1 5 for small wave steepness and maintains the monotonicity in phase speed variation for large wave steepness. And it has a simple form. By use of the new nonlinear dispersion relation along with the mild slope equation taking into account weak nonlinearity, a mathematical model of wave transformation is developed and applied to laboratory data. The results show that the model with the new dispersion relation can predict wave transformation over complicated bathymetry satisfactorily.

On Radiation Boundary Conditions and Wave Transformation Across the Surf Zone

The purpose of this paper is to extend the validity of Li's parabolic model (1994) by incorporating a combined energy factor in the mild-slope equation and by improving the traditional radiation boundary conditions. With wave breaking and energy dissipation expressed in a direct form in the equation, the proposed model could provide an efficient numerical scheme and accurate predictions of wave transformation across the surf zone. The radiation boundary conditions are iterated in the model without use of approximations. The numerical predictions for wave height distributions across the surf zone are compared with experimental data over typical beach profiles. In addition, tests of waves scattering around a circular pile show that the proposed model could also provide reasonable improvement on the radiation boundary conditions for large incident angles of waves.

Mathematical model of wave transformation over radial sand ridge field on continental shelf of South Yellow Sea

According to a deformed mild-slope equation derived by Guang-wen Hong and an enhanced numerical method, a wave refraction-diffraction nonlinear mathematical model that takes tidal level change and the high-order bathymetry factor into account has been developed. The deformed mild-slope equation is used to eliminate the restriction of wave length on calculation steps. Using the hard disk to record data during the calculation process, the enhanced numerical method can save computer memory space to a certain extent, so that a large-scale sea area can be calculated with high-resolution grids. This model was applied to wave field integral calculation over a radial sand ridge field in the South Yellow Sea. The results demonstrate some features of the wave field： （1） the wave-height contour lines are arc-shaped near the shore; （2） waves break many times when they propagate toward the shore; （3） wave field characteristics on the northern and southern sides of Huangshayang are different; and （4） the characteristics of wave distribution match the terrain features. The application of this model in the region of the radial sand ridge field suggests that it is a feasible way to analyze wave refraction-diffraction effects under natural sea conditions.

The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water

Based on the principle of wave action flux conservation, the following problems are analyzed in the present study:the transformation of wave and wave spectrum in currents, the change of current velocity profile alongside water depth due to the existence of waves, the breaking criteria of irregular waves, a new hybrid method for the analysis of wave transformation and breaking on slope, the VOF mehtod for calculating broken waves and the transformation of directional wave spectrum in currents.

Transformation and Breaking of Irregular Waves on Very Gentle Slopes

Based on theoretical analysis, numerical calculation, and experimental study. this paper discusses breaker indices of irregular waves, transformation of wave spectrum, characteristics and computation of breaking waves, as well as the critical beach slope under which waves will not break. Computed results are in good agreement with laboratory physical model test data and ocean wave field measurements.

Effects of the wave directionality on wave transformation

A numerical model is proposed based on the time domain solution of the Boussinesq equations using the finite element method in this paper. The typical wave diffraction through a breakwater gap is simulated to validate the numerical model. Good agreements are obtained between the numerical and experimental results. Further, the effects of the wave directionality on the wave diffraction through a breakwater gap and the wave transformation on a planar bathymetry are numerically investigated. The results show that the wave directional spreading has a significant effect on the wave diffraction and refraction. However, when the directional spreading parameter s is larger than around 40, the effects of the wave directional spreading on the wave transformation can be neglected in engineering applications.

Wave Height Transformation and Set-up Between A Submerged Permeable Breakwater and A Seawall

In this study, we investigated wave transformation and wave set-up between a submerged permeable breakwater and a seawall. Modified time-dependent mild-slope equations, which involve parameters of the porous medium, were used to calculate the wave height transformation and the mean water level change around a submerged breakwater. The numerical solution is verified with experimental data. The simulated results show that modulations of the wave profile and wave set-up are clearly observed between the submerged breakwater and the seawall. In contrast to cases without a seawall, the node or pseudo-node of wave height evolution can be found between the submerged breakwater and the seawall. Higher wave set-up occurs if the nodal or pseudo-nodal point appears near the submerged breakwater. We also examined the influence of the porosity and friction factor of the submerged permeable breakwater on wave transformation and set-up.

Modelling Wave Transmission and Overtopping Based on Energy Balance Equation

Wave transmission and overtopping around nearshore breakwaters can have significant influence on the transmitted wave parameters,which affects wave conditions and sediment transportation and becomes the focus of design in engineering.The objective of this paper is to present a simplified model to estimate these important wave parameters.This paper describes the incorporation of wave transmission and overtopping module into a wave model for multi-directional random wave transformation based on energy balance equation with the consideration of wave shoaling,refraction,diffraction,reflection and breaking.Wen's frequency spectrum and non-linear dispersion relation are also included in this model.The influence of wave parameters of transmitted waves through a smooth submerged breakwater has been considered in this model with an improved description of the transmitted wave spectrum of van der Meer et al.(2000) by Carevic et al.(2013).This improved wave model has been validated through available laboratory experiments.Then the verified model is applied to investigate the effect of wave transmission and overtopping on wave heights behind low-crested breakwaters in a project for nearshore area.Numerical calculations are carried out with and without consideration of the wave transmission and overtopping,and comparison of them indicates that there is a considerable difference in wave height and thus it is important to include wave transmission and overtopping in modelling nearshore wave field with the presence of low-crested breakwaters.Therefore,this model can provide a general estimate of the desired wave field parameters,which is adequate for engineers at the preliminary design stage of low-crested breakwaters.

Modeling waves and longshore transport potential in Half Moon Bay,Grays Harbor,Washington,USA

A local-scale phase-resolving wave transformation model with CGWAVE is established in connection with a regional-scale coupled STWAVE-ADCIRC wave-current model for its application in the Half Moon Bay, Grays Harbor.Wave transformation from offshore to the harbor entrance is simulated by the STWAVE model which includes wave-current interaction.The STWAVE results provide incident wave conditions for the local-scale CGWAVE model at its outer boundary. A simple method is developed to take into account the lateral variation of wave height in constructing the model’s wave boundary conditions.The model was validated for three wave condition cases which yielded good agreement with field data.The validated model was applied to predicting nearshore waves in the Half Moon Bay and longshore transport parameters along the wave breaking line for the existing condition and three engineering alternatives. A comparative analysis indicated that storm waves that have a combination of long period and large height are the most destructive to the crenulate shoreline in the Half Moon Bay; both 152 m jetty extension (Alt. 2) and diffraction mound enlargement (Alt. 3) would significantly reduce breaking wave height and longshore transport potential in the southwest corner of Half Moon Bay.

Nonlinear Analysis of Nearshore Wave Height Variation Due to Shoaling

Wave formulae derived from the dispersion relation for cnoidal waves are used to find an analytical solution to the problem of nearshore wave height variation on a simple topography, i. e., with an incrementally constant slope. The solution accounts for shoaling, frictional dissipation and will be sufficiently accurate for practical purposes considering the simplified assumptions which are necessary for the treatment of this problem by any method.

Application of VOF in Calculating Wave Energy Loss due to Spilling Breaker

A large amount of experimental analysis and systematical theoretical calculation has been done by the authors to solve the problem of wave transformation and breaking, considering the effect of both current and topography, but only the wave energy loss due to spilling breaker in the surf zone has been discussed in this paper. Based on test result analysis and calculation with the Stream Function Wave Theory, the wave velocity field at breaking points has been obtained, and it is used to calculate the wave heights after breaking by the VOF (Volume of Fluid) method, in which the governing equations are continuity equation and Navier-Stokes Equation for imcompressible fluids. In the present paper, the improved VOF technique is used to calculate the wave heights of stable regular waves after breaking. Results fit the test data well, which shows that the VOF method is suitable to numerical simulation of regular waves after breaking. Besides, the breaker coefficient B of regular waves in the bore model is also calculated.

A whole-space transform formula of cylindrical wave functions for scattering problems

The theory of elastic wave scattering is a fundamental concept in the study of elastic dynamics and wave motion,and the wave function expansion technique has been widely used in many subjects.To supply the essential tools for solving wave scattering problems induced by an eccentric source or multi-sources as well as multi-scatters,a whole-space transform formula of cylindrical wave functions is presented and its applicability to some simple cases is demonstrated in this study.The transforms of wave functions in cylindrical coordinates can be classifi ed into two basic types: interior transform and exterior transform,and the existing Graf’s addition theorem is only suitable for the former.By performing a new replacement between the two coordinates,the exterior transform formula is fi rst deduced.It is then combined with Graf’s addition theorem to establish a whole-space transform formula.By using the whole-space transform formula,the scattering solutions by the sources outside and inside a cylindrical cavity are constructed as examples of its application.The effectiveness and advantages of the whole-space transform formula is illustrated by comparison with the approximate model based on a large cycle method.The whole-space transform formula presented herein can be used to perform the transform between two different cylindrical coordinates in the whole space.In addition,its concept and principle are universal and can be further extended to establish the coordinate transform formula of wave functions in other coordinate systems.

MARTENSITE TRANSFORMATION MICROSTRUCTURE OF 40Cr STEEL COMPLEXLY INDUCED BY LASER SHOCK

40Cr steel is laser quenched by the NEL-2500A rapidly axial flow CO2 laser. Then the martensite induced by laser quenched is shocked by Nd：YAG laser again. Through comparing and analyzing the appearance and size of martensite, the dislocation density in microstmcture between the treated zones by laser quenched and by laser quenched plus laser shock, the following results are shown： The second martensite obtained by laser compound treatment is more fmer compared with those obtained by laser quenched; In the hardened zones obtained by compound treatment, a lot of slender second twin crystal martensites are induced; A lot of more high density dislocation tangles and cellular dislocations are generated. From the transmission electron microscope （TEM） micrograph after compound treatment, there are not only long lath and short nubbly martensites arranged in cross direction, but also massive nubbly and small short nubbly martensites arranged in longitudinal direction. Some martensites look like the broken blocks of quenched martensites. These new martensites are inserted transversely in the quenched martensites with large tangle. And they make quenched martensites break into pieces. Compared with the quenched martensites, the size of fresh martensites are smaller, about 0.3-0.5 μm.

Content-based image hashing using wave atoms

It is well known that robustness, fragility, and security are three important criteria of image hashing; however how to build a system that can strongly meet these three criteria is still a challenge. In this paper, a content-based image hashing scheme using wave atoms is proposed, which satisfies the above criteria. Compared with traditional transforms like wavelet transform and discrete cosine transform （DCT）, wave atom transform is adopted for the sparser expansion and better characteristics of texture feature extraction which shows better performance in both robustness and fragility. In addition, multi-frequency detection is presented to provide an application-defined trade-off. To ensure the security of the proposed approach and its resistance to a chosen-plaintext attack, a randomized pixel modulation based on the Rdnyi chaotic map is employed, combining with the nonliner wave atom transform. The experimental results reveal that the proposed scheme is robust against content-preserving manipulations and has a good discriminative capability to malicions tampering.

Localized waves in three-component coupled nonlinear Schrdinger equation

We study the generalized Darboux transformation to the three-component coupled nonlinear Schr ¨odinger equation.First-and second-order localized waves are obtained by this technique.In first-order localized wave,we get the interactional solutions between first-order rogue wave and one-dark,one-bright soliton respectively.Meanwhile,the interactional solutions between one-breather and first-order rogue wave are also given.In second-order localized wave,one-dark-one-bright soliton together with second-order rogue wave is presented in the first component,and two-bright soliton together with second-order rogue wave are gained respectively in the other two components.Besides,we observe second-order rogue wave together with one-breather in three components.Moreover,by increasing the absolute values of two free parameters,the nonlinear waves merge with each other distinctly.These results further reveal the interesting dynamic structures of localized waves in the three-component coupled system.

EXACT EXPLICIT SOLUTIONS OF THE NONLINEAR SCHRDINGER EQUATION COUPLED TO THE BOUSSINESQ EQUATION

A system comprised of the nonlinear Schrodinger equation coupled to the Boussinesq equation (S-B equations) which dealing with the stationary propagation of coupled non-linear upper-hybrid and magnetosonic waves in magnetized plasma is proposed. To examine its solitary wave solutions, a reduced set of ordinary differential equations are considered by a simple traveling wave transformation. It is then shown that several new solutions (either functional or parametrical) can be obtained systematically, in addition to rederiving all known ones by means of our simple and direct algebra method with the help of the computer algebra system Maple.

On the nonlinear transformation of breaking and non-breaking waves induced by a weakly submerged shelf

The interaction of regular quasi-monochromatic waves with a weakly submerged rectangular shelf is studied by means of CFD simulations. The fundamental incident wave frequency is kept constant for the full set of simulated cases, while the incident wave amplitude is made increase progressively, so that the interaction with the shelf is dominated by almost inviscid non-linear flow for the smallest and by breaking for the highest incident waves. A parameter identification（PI） procedure is used to adapt a reduced model to the highly resolved time-space matrix of wave elevations obtained from the numerical simulations, on the weather and lee side respectively. In particular the wave number and the frequency of the component waves in the reduced model are left uncoupled, thus computed by the PI independently. The comparison of simulated data with experiments generally shows a very good agreement. Free/locked, incident/reflected, first/higher order wave components are quantified accurately by the PI and the energy transfer to super-harmonics is clearly evidenced. Moreover the results of the PI show clearly a very large increase in the phase speed of the higher order free waves on the lee side of the shelf, with increasing deviation from the linear behavior with increasing incident wave amplitude.

Comparison between characteristics of mild slope equations and Boussinesq equations

Boussinesq-type equations and mild-slope equations are compared in terms of their basic forms and characteristics. It is concluded that linear mild-slope equations on dispersion relation are better than non-linear Boussinesq equations. In addition, Berkhoffexperiments are computed and compared by the two models, and agreement between model results and available experimental data is found to be quite reasonable, which demonstrates the two models＇ capacity to simulate wave transformation. However they can deal with different physical processes respectively, and they have their own characteristics.

DWT-SVD Based Image Steganography Using Threshold Value Encryption Method

Digital image steganography technique based on hiding the secret data behind of cover image in such a way that it is not detected by the human visual system.This paper presents an image scrambling method that is very useful for grayscale secret images.In this method,the secret image decomposes in three parts based on the pixel’s threshold value.The division of the color image into three parts is very easy based on the color channel but in the grayscale image,it is difficult to implement.The proposed image scrambling method is implemented in image steganography using discrete wavelet transform(DWT),singular value decomposition(SVD),and sorting function.There is no visual difference between the stego image and the cover image.The extracted secret image is also similar to the original secret image.The proposed algorithm outcome is compared with the existed image steganography techniques.The comparative results show the strength of the proposed technique.