Effects of winds,tides and storm surges on ocean surface waves in the Sea of Japan

Ocean surface waves are strongly forced by high wind conditions associated with winter storms in the Sea of Japan. They are also modulated by tides and storm surges. The effects of the variability in surface wind forcing, tides and storm surges on the waves are investigated using a wave model, a high-resolution atmospheric mesoscale model and a hydrodynamic ocean circulation model. Five month-long wave model simulations are inducted to examine the sensitivity of ocean waves to various wind forcing fields, tides and storm surges during January 1997. Compared with observed mean wave parameters, results indicate that the high frequency variability in the surface wind filed has very great effect on wave simulation. Tides and storm surges have a significant impact on the waves in nearshores of the Tsushima-kaihyS, but not for other regions in the Sea of Japan. High spatial and temporal resolution and good quality surface wind products will be crucial for the prediction of surface waves in the JES and other marginal seas, especially near the coastal regions.

Observation of interactions between internal tides and near-inertial waves after typhoon passage in the northern South China Sea

During the observational period of our study,Typhoon Hagupit passed over the mooring site and induced strong near-inertial waves(NIWs),which provided an opportunity to investigate the interactions between internal tides(ITs) and NIWs. Based on the mooring data,we compared the current spectra during the typhoon period and non-typhoon period in the northern South China Sea,and found that the highfrequency waves(f D 1 and f D 2) were evident during the former. Moreover,the observations of the current revealed that f D1 and f D 2 occurred near the depth of strong vertical shear in the NIWs. In order to confirm the generation mechanism of f D1 and f D 2,we compared the positions of strong vertical shear in the NIWs and strong vertical velocity in the ITs. It was established that the vertical shear of the horizontal current of the NIWs and the vertical current of the ITs contributed to the generation of f D1 and f D 2.

INTERNAL TIDES, SOLITARY WAVES AND BORES IN SHALLOW SEAS

Remote sensing and in situ observations of internal tides, solitary waves and bores in shallow water are briefly reviewed in this paper. The emphasis is laid on interpreting SAR images based on oceanographic measurements, and analyzing characteristics of internal waves in the China Seas. Directions for future research are discussed.

A study of internal solitary waves observed on the continental shelf in the northwestern South China Sea

Based on in-situ time series data from the acoustic Doppler current profiler （ADCP） and thermistor chain in Wenchang area, a sequence of internal solitary wave （ISW） packets was observed in September 2005, propagating northwest on the continental shelf of the northwestern South China Sea （SCS）. Corresponding to different stratification of the water column and tidal condition, both elevation and depression ISWs were observed at the same mooring location with amplitude of 35 m and 25 m respectively in different days. Regular arrival of the remarkable ISW packets at approximately the diurnal tidal period and the dominance of diurnal internal waves in the study area, strongly suggest that the main energy source of the waves is the diurnal tide. Notice that the wave packets were all riding on the troughs and shoulders of the internal tides, they were probably generated locally from the shelf break by the evolution of the internal tides due to nonlinear and dispersive effects.

Mooring observed mode-2 internal solitary waves in the northern South China Sea

The mode-2 internal solitary waves(ISWs)generated by mode-2 internal tide(IT)are identified by mooring observations in the northern South China Sea(SCS)from 2016 to 2017.Two mode-2 ISWs with a re-appearance period of 24.9 h observed on 29 and 30 July 2016 are characterized by type-b ISWs.They occurred when the isotherms compressed obviously in the vertical direction.Modal decomposition of IT horizontal currents shows that the vertical compression of the isotherms is mainly caused by diurnal mode-2 IT.The analysis of the role of the density stratification reveals that a deeper and thinner pycnocline is favorable for generation of mode-2 ISWs rather than pycnocline intensity.By comparing the mode-2 nonlinear,dispersion coefficients and the Ursell numbers calculated based on the stratification associated with different kinds of ITs with the observation results,it is shown that the diurnal mode-2 IT plays a crucial role in the generation of the mode-2 ISWs.When the diurnal mode-2 IT interacts with the semidiurnal IT and causes a deeper and thinner pycnocline,the mode-2 ISWs are easily excited.

Simulation of double cold cores of the 35°N section in the YellowSea with a wave-tide-circulation coupled model

Based on the MASNUM wave-tide-circulation coupled numerical model, the temperature structure along 35°N in the Yellow Sea was simulated and compared with the observations. One of the notable features of the temperature structure along 35°N section is the double cold cores phenomena during spring and summer. The double cold cores refer to the two cold water centers located near 122°E and 125°E from the depth of 30m to bottom. The formation, maintenance and disappearance of the double cold cores are discussed. At least two reasons make the temperature in the center (near 123°E) of the section higher than that near the west and east shores in winter. One reason is that the water there is deeper than the west and east sides so its heat content is higher. The other is invasion of the warm water brought by the Yellow Sea Warm Current (YSWC) during winter.This temperature pattern of the lower layer (from 30m to bottom) is maintained through spring and summer when the upper layer (0 to 30m) is heated and strong thermocline is formed. Large zonal span of the 35°N section (about 600 km) makes the cold cores have more opportunity to survive. The double cold cores phenomena disappears in early autumn when the west cold core vanishes first with the dropping of the thermocline position.

An evaluation of input/dissipation terms in WAVEWATCH Ⅲ using in situ and satellite significant wave height data in the South China Sea

A WAVEWATCH III version 3.14（WW3） wave model is used to evaluate input/dissipation source term packages WAM3, WAM4 and TC96 considering the effect of atmospheric instability. The comparisons of a significant wave height acquired from the model with different packages have been performed based on wave observation radar and HY-2 altimetry significant wave height data through five experiments in the South China Sea domain spanning latitudes of 0°–35°N and longitudes of 100°–135°E. The sensitivity of the wind speed correction parameter in the TC96 package also has been analyzed. From the results, the model is unable to dissipate the wave energy efficiently during a swell propagation with either source packages. It is found that TC96 formulation with the ＂effective wind speed＂ strategy performs better than WAM3 and WAM4 formulations. The wind speed correction parameter in the TC96 source package is very sensitive and needs to be calibrated and selected before the WW3 model can be applied to a specific region.

The summertime circulation of the Bohai Sea simulated from a high-resolution wave-tide-circulation coupled model

The Bohai Sea is a shallow semi-enclosed inner sea with an average depth of 18 m and is located at the west of the northern Yellow Sea. The climatological circulation pattern in summer of the Bohai Sea is studied by using a wave-tide-circulation coupled model. The simulated temperature and the circulation agree with the observation well. The result shows that the circulation pattern of the Bohai Sea is jointly influenced by the tidal residual current, wind and baroclinic current. There exists an obvious density current along the temperature front from the west part of the Liaodong Bay to the offshore area of the Huanghe Estuary. In the Liaodong Bay there exists a clockwise gyre in the area north to the 40°N. While in the area south to the 40°N the circulation shows a two-gyre structure, the flow from the offshore area of the Huanghe Estuary to the Liaodong Bay splits into two branches in the area between 39°N and 40°N. The west branch turns into north-west and forms an anti-clockwise gyre with the south-westward density current off the west of the Liaodong Bay. The east branch turns to the east and forms a clockwise gyre with the flow along the east coast of the Liaodong Bay. The forming mechanism of the circulation is also discussed in this paper.

Simulation and analysis on seasonal variability of average salinity in the Yellow Sea

The CTD (conductivity, temperature and depth) data collected by six China-Korea joint cruises during 1996-1998 and the climatological data suggest that the seasonal variability of average salinity in the Yellow Sea (Sa) presents a general sinusoid pattern. To study the mechanism of the variability, annual cycles of Sa were simulated and a theoretical analysis based on the governing equations was reported.Three main factors are responsible for the variability: the Yellow Sea Warm Current (YSWC), the Changjiang (Yangtze) River diluted water (YRDW) and the evaporation minus precipitation (E-P). From December to the next May, the variability of Sa is mainly controlled by the salt transportation of the YSWC. But in early July,the YSWC is overtaken and replaced by the YRDW which then becomes the most important controller in summer. From late September to November, the E-P gradually took the lead. The mass exchange north of the37°N line is not significant.

A numerical study on the generation of a distinct type of nonlinear internal wave packet in the South China Sea

A distinct type of nonlinear internal-wave packet, with the largest internal solitary wave in the middle of the packet, was regularly observed in the South China Sea during the Asian Seas International Acoustics Experiment in 2001. Data analysis shows that the occurrence of the distinct internal wave packet is closely related with the occurrence of lower-high internal tides; the internal tides are mixed in the experimental area and, thus, there is diurnal inequality between the heights of two neighboring internal tides. Modeling of internal tides and internal solitary waves in a shoaling situation suggests that this type of wave packet can be generated in the South China Sea by the large shoaling of internal solitary waves and internal tides. Both the internal solitary waves and the internal tides come from the direction of Luzon Strait. The initial large internal solitary waves contribute to the occurrence of the largest internal solitary wave in the middle of the packet and the waves behind the largest internal solitary wave, while the shoaling internal tides bring about the nonlinear internal waves in front of the largest internal solitary wave via interaction with the local shelf topography.

Seasonal variability of thermocline in the Yellow Sea

Based on the MASNUM wave-tide-circulation coupled numerical model, seasonal variability of thermocline in the Yellow Sea was simulated and compared with in-situ observations. Both simulated mixed layer depth (MLD) and thermocline intensity have similar spatial patterns to the observations. The simulated maximum MLD are 8 m and 22 m, while the corresponding observed values are 13 m and 27 m in July and October, respectively. The simulated thermocline intensity are 1.2℃/m and 0.5℃/m in July and October,respectively, which are 0.6℃/m less than those of the observations. It may be the main reason why the simulated thermocline is weaker than the observations that the model vertical resolution is less precise than that of the CTD data which is 1 m. Contours of both simulated and observed thermocline intensity present a circle in general. The wave-induced mixing plays a key role in the formation of the upper mixed layer in spring and summer. Tidal mixing enhances the thermocline intensity. Buoyancy-driven mixing destroys the thermocline in autumn and keeps the vertical temperature uniform in winter.

Tidal effects on temperature iront in the Yellow Sea

Temperature front (TF) is one of the important features in the Yellow Sea, which forms in spring,thrives in summer, and fades in autumn as thermocline declines. TF intensity |ST| is defined to describe the distribution of TF. Based on the MASNUM wave-tide-circulation coupled model, temperature distribution in the Yellow Sea was simulated with and without tidal effects. Along 36°N, distribution of TF from the simulated results are compared with the observations, and a quantitative analysis is introduced to evaluate the tidal effects on the forming and maintaining processes of the TF. Tidal mixing and the circulation structure adapting to it are the main causes of the TF.

Case study on the three-dimensional structure of meso-scale eddy in the South China Sea based on a high-resolution model

Meso-scale eddies are important features in the South China Sea（SCS）. The eddies with diameters of 50–200 km can greatly impact the transport of heat, momentum, and tracers. A high-resolution wave-tide-circulation coupled model was developed to simulate the meso-scale eddy in the SCS in this study. The aim of this study is to examine the model ability to simulate the meso-scale eddy in the SCS without data assimilations The simulated Sea Surface Height（SSH） anomalies agree with the observed the AVISO SSH anomalies well. The simulated subsurface temperature profiles agree with the CTD observation data from the ROSE（Responses of Marine Hazards to climate change in the Western Pacific） project. The simulated upper-ocean currents also agree with the main circulation based on observations. A warm eddy is identified in winter in the northern SCS. The position and domain of the simulated eddy are confirmed by the observed sea surface height data from the AVISO. The result shows that the model has the ability to simulate the meso-scale eddy in the SCS without data assimilation.The three-dimensional structure of the meso-scale eddy in the SCS is analyzed using the model result. It is found that the eddy center is tilted vertically, which agrees with the observation. It is also found that the velocity center of the eddy does not coincide with the temperature center of the eddy. The result shows that the model has the ability to simulate the meso-scale eddy in the SCS without data assimilations. Further study on the forming mechanism and the three-dimensional structure of the meso-scale eddies will be carried out using the model result and cruise observation data in the near future.

Studying of Deformation Processes by Two-Coordinate Laser Strainmeter

The results of experimental data processing of a two-coordinate laser strainmeter are discussed. The two-coordinate laser strainmeter consists of two laser strainmeters which measuring shoulders are oriented along the lines “North- South” and “West-East”. Measurement accuracy of the earth's crust microdisplacements of these devices makes 0 to1 nm. Working frequency range is from 0 to 1000 Hz. Processing experimental data the main attention is paid to high tides, natural oscillations of the Earth, natural oscillations of geoblocks, superficial sea waves. It is established that after separate earthquakes the natural oscillations of regional geoblocks are strongly excited. Besides, it is revealed that quasiperiodic fluctuations of crust in the range of periods from 1 to 12 min. are caused by atmospheric processes. Besides, it is revealed that quasiperiodic oscillations of the earth's crust in the range of periods from 1 to 12 minutes are caused by atmospheric processes.

利用GNSS反射信号监测海面高度变化——基于法国BRST站2019~2021年数据

GNSS反射测量(GNSS-R)技术凭借其数据来源广泛、低成本、高时空分辨率等优势,在地表与海洋环境监测等方面展现巨大潜力,已成为海面高度(SSH)反演的重要技术途径。现有研究大多聚焦于3~6个月内的短期GPS潮位反演,难以反映海面高度的季节性变化及年际特征,且在动态海面改正时仅考虑了垂向速度的影响,忽视了海面波动的垂向加速度,导致低潮位与高潮位的反演精度较差。基于此,以法国某一岸基跟踪站——BRST站为例,利用其连续3年的BDS/GPS/GLONASS/Galileo四系统反射信号,通过Lomb-Scargle谱分析和二阶动态潮位改正模型,采取稳健回归策略反演海面高度,并将最终结果与验潮站观测值进行对比,分析潮位变化趋势。结果表明:GNSS-R技术反演结果与验潮站观测值具有较好的一致性,反演精度有逐年提升的趋势,均方根误差(RMSE)为7.57 cm,相关系数为0.935;海面高度的季节性变化特征明显,秋、冬季平均海面高度偏高,夏季平均海面高度偏低,且海面高度的季节性变化与温度的季节性变化存在着相反的趋势;M2、S2、K1、O1、N2、K2、P1、Q1、M4等9个分潮的振幅差为0.06~6.76 cm,其平均绝对误差(MAE)为1.60 cm,迟角差为0.03°~6.96°,其平均绝对误差为2.45°,在频域上进一步验证了GNSS-R技术监测海面高度变化的可靠性。

THE EFFECTS OF RADIATION STRESS ON WAVE HEIGHTS AND SEA LEVEL IN THE INTERACTION OF COUPLED WAVE-TIDE-SURGE IN THE COASTAL AREA

Based on coastal high-resolution (2′X2′) coupled wave-tide-surgeinteraction numerical model, the effects of radiation stress on wave heights and sea level in thecoastal area of Huanghe Delta were studied. By comparisons of simulated and measured wave heightsand sea level for two mediately strong weather cases, it is demonstrated that the results simulatedby coupled wave-tide-surge model are closer to the measured and particularly in excellent agreementin the extreme values of the wave heights and set-up. This study shows that the radiation stress canincrease the wave heights maximally to 67cm and sea level to 40cm. It is also found that there areareas of over 50cm wave height increase and an area of over 20cm sea level increase in the HuangheDelta coastal area, and this find may be very important in engineering. For this reason, it issuggested that in the practical engineering application, the coupled wave-tide-surge interactionnumerical model should be prefered.

渤海波浪和潮汐风暴潮相互作用对波浪影响的数值研究

基于依赖波浪成长状态波令的表面风应力，提出了一个波浪和风暴潮潮汐运动相互作用的联合数值模式，实现了第三代波浪模式和三维风暴潮潮汐模式联合作用的数值研究，并结合渤海典型天气个例的研究，给出了渤海波浪和风暴潮潮汐相互作用对波浪影响的机制和大小量级的定量估计。研究表明，对不同天气过程，波浪和风暴潮潮汐相互作用对波浪影响的性质和大小不同；对强寒潮过程，对波浪影响主要由风暴潮所支配，波高调制可达1m，在黄河口区一般达0.5m；对弱天气过程，对波浪影响主要由潮所控制，波高调制约在0.2m，联合作用模式给出的结果与实测更吻合。

机载激光测深中的波浪改正技术

基于我国新研制的机载激光测深系统基本配置 ,提出了 3种可供选择的波浪改正计算方案 (也称为深度值归算方案 ) ,具体分析了 3种方案的适用条件和应用范围 ,并从理论上对

海浪混合参数化的渤海、黄海、东海水动力环境数值模拟

在浪-流耦合的概念下,对PrincetonOceanModel(POM)模式进行改进,增加特征波参数下的海浪混合作用,并把潮流和环流同时模拟,得到了渤海、黄海、东海典型的环流和水文特征,特别是夏季黄海的温跃层现象,夏季长江冲淡水扩展路径以及我国东部海域冬季和夏季典型环流等.研究表明,海浪的作用使海洋上层混合得更均匀,潮流的作用使海洋底层混合得更均匀,二者是温跃层形成的重要原因;考虑潮效应模拟流场,由于潮扩散和潮余流的作用,长江冲淡水路径与实际观测更为符合.

潮流波浪联合输沙及海床冲淤演变的理论体系与其数学模拟

根据近岸带及河口区潮流、波浪、湍流各自物理尺度的不同，从Ｎａｖｉｅｒ－Ｓｔｏｋｅｓ方程和质量传输方程出发，利用Ｒｅｙｎｏｌｄｓ分解的方法，建立了模拟波浪潮流联合输沙及海床冲淤演变的理论体系，给出了潮流作用下近岸波浪传播方程、波浪作用下潮流运动方程；并通过利用波流合成底部切应力、底层湍流脉动随机特性，得出了波流联合作用下不平衡输沙计算中泥沙起悬与沉降量的确定方法。本文模型应用于“广西合浦围垦工程潮流波浪输沙”、“黄骅港规划一期工程波流计算”等实际工程，结果证明该模型是可行的。