Establishment of Cosmetics Standardization Technical Committee

On May 6th,2024,National Medical Products Administration issued Announcement on the Establishment of Cosmetics Standardization Technical Committee(No.53 of 2024).According to the announcement,National Medical Products Administration is about to establish Cosmetics Standardization Technical Committee,aiming at furthering implementing Regulations on Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics,and promoting the formulation and revision of the cosmetics standard(including toothpaste).

A Review of 2023 Supervision Updates of Cosmetics in China

In 2023,multiple supporting documents of the Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics and regulatory requirements for toothpaste were successively introduced.This article provides a detailed introduction to the updates of domestic cosmetics regulations in China in 2023,and sorts out the details of the 2023 unqualified cosmetics notification and flight inspection issued by regulatory authorities,analyzes the reasons,and helps cosmetics companies further understand regulatory requirements,implement the main responsibility of cosmetics quality and safety,and respond to changes in cosmetics regulatory policies,so as to avoid being notified of unqualified products,economic and reputation losses as much as possible.

Research Progress on Application of Borneol As Permeation Enhancer in Functional Cosmetics

Borneol, as a traditional natural permeation enhancer, has been widely used to promote the transdermal absorption of active ingredients. In this review, the mechanism of borneol in promoting permeation by destroying the highly ordered lipid structure of the lipid layer and by destroying the hydrogen-bond network was described. The application of borneol in promoting the transdermal absorption of the active ingredients of traditional Chinese medicine and chemical drugs was introduced. The application of borneol as a natural ingredient added to functional cosmetics was summarized, and its effects on skin-spot treatment, acne skin care, eczema skin care, skin repair and anti-oxidation were introduced. Finally, the possible problems in the application of borneol in cosmetics were put forward, and the application prospect of borneol in the development of cosmetics was given.

Study on the Efficacy Claim and Evaluation Method of Lip Cosmetics

To study the efficacy of lip moisturizing cosmetics and explore the methods for evaluating their efficacy.The claimed efficacy and number of claimed efficacy of 44 lip moisturizing cosmetics were investigated,and a combination of in vitro and human testing was used to evaluate the efficacy of the lip moisturizing cosmetics.The efficacy claims of lip cosmetics mainly included 4 categories of moisturizing,repairing,soothing and anti-wrinkle,with 79.55%of the products claiming 3~4 categories of efficacy.In the in vitro test,the cell morphology of the skin damage model improved and the secretion of pro-inflammatory factors decreased significantly.In the human trial,the water content,skin softness and brightness L value of the cuticle of the lips increased significantly in 31 subjects,and the transepidermal water loss,redness a value,and the area and volume of lip wrinkles decreased significantly;the dryness of the lip skin and the uniformity of the skin texture improved significantly.The dryness of lip skin and the uniformity of skin texture were significantly improved.The results show that the moisture content of the stratum corneum can be used to evaluate the moisturizing efficacy of lip products.The transepidermal water loss,skin color,skin softness and expert assessment can be used to evaluate the repairing efficacy.The observation of cell morphology of skin damage models and the detection of pro-inflammatory factor content can be used to evaluate the soothing efficacy.The area and volume of lip wrinkles can be used to evaluate the anti-wrinkle efficacy of products.

Research on Current Situation and Legal Regulation of Cosmetics Live Streaming E-commerce in China

Analyze the compatibility between cosmetics and live streaming e-commerce from its own nature,marketing means and supply chain characteristics.According to the prominent problems,sort out the relationship between all parties in the cosmetics live e-commerce industry chain.Combined with the latest regulatory policies of live streaming e-commerce and cosmetics,the responsibilities of different subjects in cosmetics live streaming e-commerce are summarized,and relevant suggestions and countermeasures are put forward for the standardization and development of live streaming e-commerce.Cosmetics brand owners are the first responsible persons for product quality.Anchors,as a mixed identity between intermediary,advertising spokesperson and operator,should bear stricter joint and several liability when recommending products related to consumers’health.If anchors fail to clearly identify themselves in the recommendation process,thus causing consumers to mistake them for the operator of the cosmetics,they should assume the obligations of the operator.

Application of plant extracts cosmetics in the field of anti-aging

Skin aging is a direct manifestation of body aging,representing a complex and irreversible natural process,which is influenced by genetics,lifestyle and environmental factors.In the process of skin aging,the skin epidermis gradually become thinner,the inherent repair ability gradually weakens,the collagen and elastin gradually decrease and the skin gradually loses elasticity.Although skin aging is inevitable,it can be delayed to some extent by using cosmetics.Natural extract cosmetics are highly favored by consumers for their safety and efficacy,aligning with consumer preferences for natural,organic,efficient and sustainable skincare concepts.Numerous plant resources in nature possess superior properties like moisturizing,barrier repair,anti-oxidation,sunscreen whitening and anti-inflammatory properties after thousands of years of natural selection.These properties enable plant components to effectively enhance the anti-aging effects of skincare products through multiple anti-aging pathways,which can be widely used to develop natural anti-aging skin care products.

Recent advances on application of polysaccharides in cosmetics

Natural products have attracted wide attention in the cosmetics market due to their safety and high efficiency.As a highly active substance in nature,natural polysaccharides have been reported in recent years to have various cosmetic activities such as moisturizing,whitening,anti-aging and repairing skin,and are becoming a hot research topic in the cosmetics industry.At present,the mechanism of polysaccharide exerting cosmetic activity has been widely studied,but the relationship between polysaccharide’s chemical structure and cosmetic activity has not been effectively analyzed,which leads to the limitation of polysaccharide development.In this review,the mechanism of polysaccharides exerting cosmetic activities such as moisturizing,whitening,anti-aging and skin repair was introduced.The potential relationship between the structure and activity of polysaccharides was summarized by analyzing the influence of physical and chemical properties of polysaccharides,such as extraction method,molecular weight,monosaccharide composition,functional group and structural modification,etc.,which laid a foundation for the analysis of the structure-activity relationship of polysaccharides and improved its cosmetic value.

In-Cosmetics回顾

In—Cosmetics2007化妆品原料贸易展示会于2007年4月17日。2007年4月19日在巴黎召开。据组织者称，展会创下了参展商数量新记录。展会上，供应商展示了一系列新产品。

Effects of cosmetics containing purified honeybee(Apis mellifera L.) venom on acne vulgaris

Acne vulgaris is a chronic dermatologic problem with multiple factors involved in its pathogenesis. Alternative solutions to acne treatment were instigated by antibiotic resistance despite of its extensive use. Purified bee venom （PBV） has been proposed as a promising candidate for that purpose. The present study was designed to confirm the antibacterial effect of PBV and access the efficacy of cosmetics containing PBV in subjects with acne vulgaris. METHODS： The skin bacterium Propionibacterium acnes was incubated with PBV at various concentrations and bacterial growth was evaluated using the colony forming unit （CFU） assay. The mechanism of PBV employed in killing P. acnes was examined by scanning electron microscopy （SEM） and transmission electron microscopy （TEM）. In addition, a total of 12 subjects were randomized in a double-blind, controlled trial to receive either cosmetics containing PBV or cosmetics without PBV for two weeks. Evaluations included lesion counts and skin microorganism. RESULTS： PBV exhibited antimicrobial activity in a concentration-dependent manner, reducing the number of P. acnes CFU by approximately 6 logs at a concentration of 0.5 mg. When PBV concentration was higher than 1.0 mg, no P. acnes colonies were spotted on an agar. TEM and SEM of untreated P. acnes illustrated the normal pleomorphic structure, whereas the PBV- treated bacterium lost the integrity of surface architecture. Significant difference （P=0.027） in the grading levels based on numbers of lesion counts for inflammatory and noninflammatory was observed in favour of the PBV group compared with the control group. In terms of average decrement of skin microorganism, subjects receiving cosmetics containing PBV experienced a significant 57.5% decrease of adenosine triphosphate levels, whereas participants receiving cosmetics without PBV experienced a nonsignificant decrease of 4.7%. CONCLUSION： These results show that the in vitro actions of antimicrobial activity of PBV were translated in vivo. Cosmetics containing PBV provided a certain degree of efficacy in terms of lesion counts and skin microorganism concentration compared with cosmetics without PBV in subjects with acne vulgaris. PBV may be a good candidate compound for developing therapeutic drua for the treatment of acne vulaaris.

Nanotechnology in Cosmetics: Basics, Current Trends and Safety Concerns—A Review

As nanotechnology finds new applications, the formulation and use of nano-particulate structures in the production of cosmetics and cosmeceuticals keeps increasing. Nano-sized materials such as cubosomes, nanodots, liposomes, dendrimers, nano-emulsions are now becoming regular ingredients in the cosmetic space. These nanoparticle-based cosmetics or nano-cosmeceuticals have extended the boundaries of the applications of cosmetics in managing conditions of wrinkling, dehydrated and inelastic skin associated with aging and dispersed hyperpigmentation. With so many claims by giant cosmetic manufacturers on the several possibilities achievable by such products containing these, there remain valid questions needing answers. Such includes: what are the actual facts as opposed to unfounded expectations on use of nano-materials in cosmetics? What are the peculiar properties of Nano-sized structures? Any potential or actual health risks associated with nanoparticle-incorporated cosmetic products? What roles are the regulating authorities and academic researchers playing in the light of all these developments? This review attempts to answer these questions, taking a look at the updates on nano-sized materials used in cosmetics, while presenting actual advances made in nano-cosmetics amidst the seemingly not too obvious hidden risks.

Natural products in cosmetics

The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023,at around a 7%annual growth rate.The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade.Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021.It is expected to be the world’s number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050,with a size of approximately US$450 billion.The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources.As a result,the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products.The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics,including topical care products,fragrances,moisturizers,UV protective,and anti-wrinkle products.In addition,the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health,and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed.

Ionic Liquid-Based Ultrasound-Assisted Emulsification Microextraction Coupled with HPLC for Simultaneous Determination of Glucocorticoids and Sex Hormones in Cosmetics

An effective and environmentally friendly method based on ionic liquid-based ultrasound-assisted emulsification microextraction(IL-USAEME) and high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) has been developed for the determination of nine hormones including three glucocorticoids, one androgen and five progestogens in cosmetics. Several factors that affect the extraction efficiency, such as the kinds and volume of ionic liquid, salt concentration, ultrasonic power and time, and centrifugation time were investigated and optimized. Under the optimum extraction condition, the recoveries of analytes ranged from 85.97% to 108.84% except prednisolone (62.30%). The intraday and interday precision was below 2.51% and 3.30%, respectively.

Boron Nitride Nanostructured: Synthesis, Characterization and Potential Use in Cosmetics

The hexagonal boron nitride has been well investigated. Its layered structure is similar to that of graphite. In the manufacture of cosmetics, this structure is intended to improve the appearance, sensory aspect and makes it easy to mix excipients contained in the formulation in the mixture process. In cosmetology, the efficiency and the penetration of active substances into skin are known to be directly related to the particle size. However, only recently their nanostructured properties have been explored. In this work, the synthesis of hexagonal boron nitride in the nanoscale, its composition, structure, morphology and potential for future application in sunscreens are being investigated. The boron nitride was synthesized from boric acid and melamine to a heat treatment at 1600℃. The crystal structure was characterized by (XRD) and its morphology was examined by (SEM) and (TEM);the chemical composition was studied by (FTIR), (EDS) and (EELS), the texture characterization by (BET) and its potential in sunscreens by (FTIR and UV/VIS). Results have shown that boron nitride may be synthesized in the nanoscale and that this material has the potential to be incorporated into cosmetics.

The methodology of Cosmetics Efficacy Evaluation to Provide Scientific Support for Soothing Skin Efficacy Claims

The performance and formation mechanism of sensitive skin were summarized. Various evaluation methods for soothing skin cosmetics such as physical and chemical methods, biochemical methods, cell biological methods, three-dimensional recombinant skin model alternative method, animal experiment method, subjective evaluation, semi subjective evaluation and objective instrument evaluation method were introduced. The new idea of soothing efficacy evaluation was proposed and the development direction was put forward.

Silver Nanoparticles in Cosmetics

This review is presented as a common interest in silver nanoparticles, their origin, activity, and toxicity in cosmetic. The application of nanotechnology and nanomaterials can be found in many cosmetic products including moisturizer, hair care products, makeup and sunscreen. Nanomaterials are now being used in leading cosmetics products, most commonly as chemicals used to give the protection. A silver nanoparticle is the potent and broad spectrum antimicrobial agent. This review paper looks into use of nano silver and provides an overview of current activity in this area.

Uncertainty Evaluation of Simultaneous Determination of Lead, Cadmium and Arsenic in Cosmetics by Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometry

This study aimed to evaluate the uncertainty of simultaneous determination of lead(Pb),cadmium(Cd)and arsenic(As)in cosmetics by microwave digestion-inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry(ICP-MS)with ^72Ge,^115In and ^209Bi as internal standards.According to the method of Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics(2015),a mathematical model was established to evaluate the sources and components of uncertainty for the determination of lead,cadmium and arsenic in cosmetics.The results showed that the uncertainties in the determination of lead,cadmium,and arsenic elements in cosmetics were(10.1±0.6)mg/kg,k=2,(4.84±0.28)mg/kg,k=2,(2.04±0.18)mg/kg,k=2,respectively.The main factors that affect the uncertainty of determination results were standard substance,calibration curve,recovery and measurement repeatability.

Maternal Cosmetics and the Risk of Autism: A Case-Control Pilot Study

Background: There has been much debate and inquiry surrounding the nature of the increase in prevalence of autism spectrum disorder (ASD). There are many environmental risk factors that have been postulated to be associated with the development of ASD. Cosmetic products are widely used in daily life. The aim of this study was to clarify whether maternal cosmetics usage is a risk factor of ASD. Patients and Methods: The present work was a cross sectional case-control study. Fifty eight mothers with children, who have been diagnosed with ASD by meeting the DMS-5 criteria, were compared with 49 mothers with neurotypical children. The mothers were asked to complete a short questionnaire comprised their use of cosmetics outside of pregnancy and changes in use during pregnancy. Results: No statistically significant difference was found between cases and controls as regard the overall usage of cosmetics. Indoors usage of makeup was significantly higher among mothers with autistic children than mothers of controls (p = 0.36). The duration of cosmetics usage was significantly higher among the mothers of controls than mothers with autistic children (p = 0.011). Eyes and lips makeup were the most frequent of makeup type among mothers with autistic children and controls while hair protein or keratin were the least frequent of makeup type among both groups. The number of women who reported the usage of lips makeup was significantly higher among the mothers of controls than those with autistic children (p = 0.024). The number of mothers with autistic children who reported “no change” as regard the usage pattern during pregnancy was significantly higher than those of the controls (p = 0.042). Conclusions: According to our results, cosmetics could not be considered as a risk factor for ASD. Further understanding of this issue requires future studies with different designs.

Determination of Compositions in Cosmetics by Multiple-Instrument

An analysis method based on multi-instruments analysis technique coupled solvent extraction to determine compositions of unknown cosmetic were established. The multi-instruments involve high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), X-ray diffraction (XRD) and Fourier transform infrared (FTIR). The cosmetic sample was separated and enriched into 4 fractions by the solvent extraction. The compounds were defined as mercuric ammonium chloride, liquid paraffin, etc.

圣颜Cosmetics的需求市场分析

自改革开放以来,我国的经济水平不断显著提高。人们对生活水平的要求也不断提高。与此同时,与之相对应的化妆品产业也在不断优化完善。作为大学生创新项目的"圣颜Cosmetics"的市场既有机会又有挑战,应正确分析并采应对措施。