Wen et al.’s odhed dewiogh to obtain wind-wave frequency spectrum in deep was used toderive the spectrum in finite depth water. The spedrum S（ω） （ω bein angular frequency） when normalizedwith the zeroth moment ...Wen et al.’s odhed dewiogh to obtain wind-wave frequency spectrum in deep was used toderive the spectrum in finite depth water. The spedrum S（ω） （ω bein angular frequency） when normalizedwith the zeroth moment m and peak frequercyω。 contains in adrition to the peakness factor P=ω。S（ω。）/m。, a twth parameter n=（2πm。）<sub>1/2</sub>d （d being water depPth）, so the spatrum behavior can bestudies for different ware growth stages and water depths.展开更多
The spectrum derived in Part 1 of the presert paper is here systematically verified with field data andcompared at some length with that obtained by multiplying the deep-water spectrum with theKitaigorodskii factor.
Combined with irregular wave-maker, the growing process of Wave Energy Spectrum in shallow water can be studied in wind wave channel on different water depth conditions, and its transformation characteristics and rule...Combined with irregular wave-maker, the growing process of Wave Energy Spectrum in shallow water can be studied in wind wave channel on different water depth conditions, and its transformation characteristics and rules can be obtained.展开更多
Based on the second order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, statistical distributions of the depth integrated local horizontal momentum components are derived by use of the charact...Based on the second order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, statistical distributions of the depth integrated local horizontal momentum components are derived by use of the characteristic function expansion method. The parameters involved in the distributions can be all determined by the water depth and the wave number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, a fully developed wind generated sea is considered and the parameters are calculated for typical wind speeds and water depths by means of the Donelan and Pierson spectrum. The effects of nonlinearity and water depth on the distributions are also investigated.展开更多
基金Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China.
文摘Wen et al.’s odhed dewiogh to obtain wind-wave frequency spectrum in deep was used toderive the spectrum in finite depth water. The spedrum S（ω） （ω bein angular frequency） when normalizedwith the zeroth moment m and peak frequercyω。 contains in adrition to the peakness factor P=ω。S（ω。）/m。, a twth parameter n=（2πm。）<sub>1/2</sub>d （d being water depPth）, so the spatrum behavior can bestudies for different ware growth stages and water depths.
基金Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China.
文摘The spectrum derived in Part 1 of the presert paper is here systematically verified with field data andcompared at some length with that obtained by multiplying the deep-water spectrum with theKitaigorodskii factor.
文摘Combined with irregular wave-maker, the growing process of Wave Energy Spectrum in shallow water can be studied in wind wave channel on different water depth conditions, and its transformation characteristics and rules can be obtained.
文摘Based on the second order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, statistical distributions of the depth integrated local horizontal momentum components are derived by use of the characteristic function expansion method. The parameters involved in the distributions can be all determined by the water depth and the wave number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, a fully developed wind generated sea is considered and the parameters are calculated for typical wind speeds and water depths by means of the Donelan and Pierson spectrum. The effects of nonlinearity and water depth on the distributions are also investigated.
